From Pau take the road to Ossau valley, after the road pass of Portalet follow down the Tena valley. 20 km after, take the road to "Piedrafita de Jaca". From there take the dirt road for 1,5 km to a big farm. Driving on from that point is not allowed. There is a place for vivaquing. Now walking, follow the dirt road for an hour. When reached a stream, leave the road and follow a trail to the left that reaches the Piedrafita lake. Follow the normal route going south with some steep sections on the way to Cavichirizas col. Once at the base of the last steep section go right un up to go around the Navarros´ Spur to reach the star of the couloir.
It is an obvious line, follow first ice-snow of 55º and then 2-3 pitches of 85º-90º ice and a short section of V+ of rock. The rest is easier ramps of 50º-60º and M3. It joins the normal route at Cavichirizas col, that is reached by a exposed traverse. From that point to the summit with out difficulties. Descent via the normal route.
Ice axes, crampons, 4 ice-crews, 6 pegs, some nuts and friends. Do not forget the Helmet.
January until March. ATTENTION !!!!! Due to its eastwards orientation it is not very often in good shape. It is mandatory a very early start with very cold temperatures.
Climbers: Pedro Álvarez, Gorka Hernández, Javier López and Adolfo Madinabetia. Date: January 30th, 1983
.- PIRINEOS, "Ascensiones en Mixto, Nieve y Hielo" by: Francis Mousel. Published by ediciones Desnivel 1997. ISBN: 84-89969-17-5
All info gathered by:
Mountain Guide & Rock + Ice Climbing Instructor
This is his website: www.todovertical.com