Crack of Noon Buttress

Crack of Noon Buttress is a small formation with an easy approach and several excellent routes, mostly in the 5.9-10a range with a couple of hard routes on the left hand corner and burly looking project on the NW face).  The fact that old pitons were found on one of the routes suggests that climbing here predates the era of cams.

From the Hwy. 395/Pine Creek Rd. junction drive approx. 8.3 miles up Pine Creek Rd. and look for a small gravel turnout on the Northwest side of the road.  Park there and pick up a Southwest (towards the rocks, but angling a bit left) dirt road/trail that leads toward a sand dune.  Before reaching the sand dune angle right toward a big boulder with a slab immediately behind it.

Em Ion - 5.8, crack splitting the big boulder in front of Crack of Noon Buttress, thin crux, gear belay

Rewritten - 5.9, dihedral, 4 bolts, fun stemming or paste your feet in the corner, mussy

Ripples - 5.9+, 5 bolts, two short vertical steps followed by a slab, same anchor as Rewritten

OW - That Bites - 10a, 5 bolts, fun face route, straight up from the ledge

What Horn - 5.9+, 5 bolts, same start as "OW - That Bites" traverse left on ledge then go up, watch fall potential, excellent

Crack of Noon - 5.9R, nice climb, but decking potential and sparse/thin pro in the lower section make this a bit of a heady endeavor.  There are a couple of variations to the left of the upper crack/section.

Heady Noon - 11d, looks great (if you're climbing at that grade), climb out of the small roof on the right

High Noon - 12c, straight up in the left facing dihedral

Project - there is a ultra thin, diagonal crack line on the NW face of the formation.