Creta di Aip / Trogkofel SW Route

Creta di Aip / Trogkofel SW Route

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 46.57078°N / 13.21672°E
Route Type: Hiking
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Difficulty: Easy UIAA I climb and scramble

Rating the Route (By Hiking Standards)

Below the summit of Creta di Aip / TrogkofelThe notch below the summit
The grading system for hiking and scrambling routes is here.

0. General: From Rudnigalm, 1612m (Passo di Cason di Lanza is 1567m) to 2279m, exposition S. First easy hike-up over the meadows and over screes, then a short climb, finally again an easy ascent over a moderately inclined grassy and rocky slope. The ascent over the rocky part is not secured! The climbing sections are no harder than UIAA I, but require (especially on a descent) some care. Gear: Good hiking shoes and poles.

1. Effort: cca 730m, 2h 30min.
2. Power: 3 - Medium (only a few places, otherwise easy)
3. Psyche: 3 - Medium.
4. Orientation: 1 - No difficulties (well marked).


Casera di AipAip alpine meadow
The view towards ZermulaTowards Passo di Cason di Lanza
The SW ascent is most suitable for hikers, who attempt to climb on Creta di Aip / Trogkofel from Passo di Cason di Lanza. But from any direction you reach the comfortable long-distance trail Traversata Carnica / Karnische Hoehenweg, you will be able to jump from it in one hour also on Creta di Aip / Trogkofel. The numbers above (start altitude and time) refer to Rudnigalm starting point, but the time from Passo di Cason di Lanza is much the same, as you don't go around the mountain. For the visitors who ascend the summit from the Austrian side, or by Ferrata Crete Rosse, the SW route is mostly used for the descent.

Ascending Creta di Aip / Trogkofel you will very likely do a round tour. If you opt to descend by the normal SW route, then the Uiberlacher Weg is the recommended ascent route. If you opt to try the Crete Rosse ferrata, then it is better to choose that one for the ascent and descend by Uiberlacher Weg if you go on the Austrian side, and by the SW route if you go on the Italian side. I have still no personal experience with the West ridge route.

Route Description

M. Cavallo / Rosskofel from Creta di Aip / TrogkofelThe S plateau
From Rudnigalm, 1612m, we continue by the road southwards, then we deter right, following the marks (Trogkofel, No. 413). The path goes over ski slopes, crosses a humble side ridge and descends on the other side into a broad valley, going among big rocks and boulders. We reach almost 1900m, just below the E wall of Creta di Aip / Trogkofel, where the key crossword is. Towards the right goes the Uiberlacher Steig, but we continue left on the saddle, where we hit Traversata Carnica / Karnische Hoehenweg. The main ridge can also be reached by ski slopes (even easier and shorter). Continue by the broad path below the southern walls of Creta di Aip / Trogkofel, pass the entry on Ferrata Crete Rosee, until from the left the marked path from Passo di Cason di Lanza comes. There up towards the summit also the SW route deters.

The approach to rocks is short. Then the marked path goes first up and a bit towards the left. Soon there are the first climbing passages. They are not hard, but the path is not protected at all, so you consider it as an easy rock climb, which requires some skills and care. The wall is only some 150m high. Through ravines and in switchbacks we climb up and soon exit on the inclined upper plateau of the mountain. There the path goes smoothly up towards the NE. The slope is grassy and rocky, you can admire beautiful karst phaenomena. Soon from the left a tiny marked path comes, which goes below the W ridge. We continue in the same direction, finally in a bit steeper ascent reach the notch between the two main summits (a picturesque couloir to the north) and in a few minutes also the summit.

The Map

Creta di Aip / Trogkofel and its marked routes