Crux of the Arete des Cosmiques

Climbing the crux section of the Cosmiques ridge. In this situation (april 2007) you can either use the fixed sling or climb the easy vertical crack at the right of the sling.


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ericnoel - Apr 10, 2007 4:13 pm - Voted 10/10

Amusing Photo

At first glance it looked like one climber was standing right on the other's head.


Lortnoc - Apr 10, 2007 4:17 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Amusing Photo

That would be a revolutionary way of aiding through difficult sections. Remove your crampons first off course ;)


MoT - Dec 18, 2007 9:14 am - Hasn't voted

Rescued :(

We did this in August 2007 and there was hardly any snow banked below the fixed gear on the crux. Had awful difficulty. Most of the snow had just fallen off the side of the mountain at that area leaving an extra 10 feet of climbing which was JUST beyond our best efforts. We tried the chimney to the right of it also, without success - almost made it there. Ended up bivvying in a small cave overnight 1 rope length below the chimney - weren't giving in that easy! We were surprised at how big a difference the lack of any snow up there made to the route! Increased the crux by a partial grade at least. We found the rest of the ridge easy. Anyway the next morning a storm blew in and we were forced to seek assistance... terribly embarrassed but unfortunately it was a necessary intervention. First ever (and hopefully last ever) mountain rescue situation... Couldn't believe the difference the lack of a snow bank made under the fixed tat

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