mlarkin2002 - Oct 13, 2006 10:26 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Cl. 3 N. Face
Enjoyable, short dayhike/climb with a 1mi approach from the parking lot.
Matt Worster - Sep 5, 2006 4:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006
North Arete
Good climbing, terrifyingly loose. I thought I was sure to kill climbers below. Crystal band was awesome. We climbed up to the highest point, crossing some of the best 4th class alpine ridge I've had in a while.
Romain - Jun 30, 2006 8:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2006
North Arete Warmup
Climbed as a warmup for the North Arete of Bear Creek Spire. TR here.
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 21, 2005
don't know if we started in the correct spot. climbed a chimney to the right of the buttress toe. fun climbing until the Crystal Pitch, where everything was loose.
not interested in peakbagging, so didn't go to the summit.
Route Climbed: "one tree couloir" Date Climbed: 8-17-05
Bagged it via the "one tree couloir" 3rd class chute on the west side. Then followed easy third class rock on/just below the ridgeline to the summit. Took a direct route down the west face from the summit down some fun third class rock.
The route the Croft guide shows seemed easier than 5.7. Maybe we were off route at the start. The crystal band was loose, but cool. Highlight was the ridge traverse.
Route Climbed: North-to-south traverse Date Climbed: July 5, 2005
The North Arete was pretty fun, and so was the South Ridge descent. Kept to the crest of the latter ridge almost the entire way--a bit spicy in a couple of places, and I was glad I still had my rock shoes on, but great fun. Continued on to Mammoth Crest (a spicy snow climb with just an ice axe), traversed every bump along that to Duck Pass, and then continued on tagging every bump along Sherwin Crest before ending the day on Mammoth Rock. Longer outing than I'd expected, but a fun one.
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 1, 2005
Climbed with David Victor after flying in from the Bay Area. What a luxury to dispense with the long drive to the Eastern Sierra! Nice route, particularly the crystal pitch and the ridge traverse. The flight in was pretty nice too... Trip report
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: December ~1982
Got bored on a family ski vacation, so I started skiing around the valley. Pretty soon I decided to reconnoiter the crag. One thing lead to another, and pretty soon I was on top. Wish I could have said the same thing for my love life!
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 23, 2004
Summitted with my friend Lance. Nice 45 minute approach - mostly 4th class with a fifth class move or two. Forgot my harness which kept it interesting.
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 13, 2004
Very easy 5.7, but you just cannot beat this approach. Rock turned out to be pretty good quality! We barely missed a thunderstorm. After summiting, we descended the West face when the first drops of rain hit us.
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: 31 July, 2004
Took longer than I expected, but quite an enjoyable climb. Fun first 2 technical pitches, then unroped for the rest of the way. Crystal pitch was weirdly cool, and exposure for the rest of the traverse was exciting! Great climb & summit!
Route Climbed: East Central Gully Date Climbed: July '77
Did the same route Josh described in the very first post; this my first ever Sierra roped route. This the most obvious line on the East Face. The 5.7 Josh describes comes in the first 40'- 50' of face climbing. NIce golden rock; no pro as I recall. Gully then turns to a sandy hke, then back to 4th class, 5.0 and some 5.4 B4 you hit the 3rd/ 4th class North summit ridge
mlarkin2002 - Oct 13, 2006 10:26 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Cl. 3 N. FaceEnjoyable, short dayhike/climb with a 1mi approach from the parking lot.
Matt Worster - Sep 5, 2006 4:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006
North AreteGood climbing, terrifyingly loose. I thought I was sure to kill climbers below. Crystal band was awesome. We climbed up to the highest point, crossing some of the best 4th class alpine ridge I've had in a while.
Romain - Jun 30, 2006 8:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2006
North Arete WarmupClimbed as a warmup for the North Arete of Bear Creek Spire. TR here.
tdoughty - Oct 16, 2005 12:45 pm
Route Climbed: west couloir Date Climbed: January 2004from a snow cave at the base
pwdrqst - Oct 4, 2005 2:48 pm
Route Climbed: Scrambled up Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2004Beautiful day...
tiogap - Aug 23, 2005 12:35 am
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 21, 2005don't know if we started in the correct spot. climbed a chimney to the right of the buttress toe. fun climbing until the Crystal Pitch, where everything was loose.
not interested in peakbagging, so didn't go to the summit.
sierragator - Aug 21, 2005 10:46 am
Route Climbed: "one tree couloir" Date Climbed: 8-17-05Bagged it via the "one tree couloir" 3rd class chute on the west side. Then followed easy third class rock on/just below the ridgeline to the summit. Took a direct route down the west face from the summit down some fun third class rock.
birdhead - Jul 25, 2005 1:15 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: 07/23/05The route the Croft guide shows seemed easier than 5.7. Maybe we were off route at the start. The crystal band was loose, but cool. Highlight was the ridge traverse.
Matthew Holliman - Jul 20, 2005 11:19 pm
Route Climbed: North-to-south traverse Date Climbed: July 5, 2005The North Arete was pretty fun, and so was the South Ridge descent. Kept to the crest of the latter ridge almost the entire way--a bit spicy in a couple of places, and I was glad I still had my rock shoes on, but great fun. Continued on to Mammoth Crest (a spicy snow climb with just an ice axe), traversed every bump along that to Duck Pass, and then continued on tagging every bump along Sherwin Crest before ending the day on Mammoth Rock. Longer outing than I'd expected, but a fun one.
Bob Burd - Jul 18, 2005 3:00 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 7, 2005Climbed with Matthew, Michael, and Monty under beautiful skies and great weather. An enjoyable route, just wish it were longer! Trip Report
Romain - Jul 2, 2005 2:08 am
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: July 1, 2005Climbed with David Victor after flying in from the Bay Area. What a luxury to dispense with the long drive to the Eastern Sierra! Nice route, particularly the crystal pitch and the ridge traverse. The flight in was pretty nice too... Trip report
RSN473 - Jun 2, 2005 12:30 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2004This was our "Plan B" after getting snowed off of Bear Creek Spire - good climb!
Steve Larson - Nov 15, 2004 1:10 am
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: December ~1982Got bored on a family ski vacation, so I started skiing around the valley. Pretty soon I decided to reconnoiter the crag. One thing lead to another, and pretty soon I was on top. Wish I could have said the same thing for my love life!
tbnelson - Sep 28, 2004 2:33 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: June 23, 2004Summitted with my friend Lance. Nice 45 minute approach - mostly 4th class with a fifth class move or two. Forgot my harness which kept it interesting.
Sam Mills - Sep 22, 2004 12:18 am
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: 9/17/04Choose this as a short easy climb after Temple Crag.
Doug and I both felt the best part of this climb was the class 4 traverse from the north tower to the summit.
We caught up with Eastern Sierra guide Doug Nidever and his client at the summit. We had a brief, but pleasent chat.
I ended the day with a soak at Wild Willy's and watched the sun set behind the Minarets.
Misha - Aug 16, 2004 11:41 am
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 13, 2004Very easy 5.7, but you just cannot beat this approach. Rock turned out to be pretty good quality! We barely missed a thunderstorm. After summiting, we descended the West face when the first drops of rain hit us.
Diggler - Aug 4, 2004 3:20 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: 31 July, 2004Took longer than I expected, but quite an enjoyable climb. Fun first 2 technical pitches, then unroped for the rest of the way. Crystal pitch was weirdly cool, and exposure for the rest of the traverse was exciting! Great climb & summit!
Scott M. - Jun 17, 2004 12:15 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete (II 5.7) Date Climbed: June 15, 2004A fun way to kill a morning and still have time to get an afternoon adventure in, too.
rockitjeff - Mar 29, 2004 9:52 pm
Route Climbed: East Central Gully Date Climbed: July '77Did the same route Josh described in the very first post; this my first ever Sierra roped route. This the most obvious line on the East Face. The 5.7 Josh describes comes in the first 40'- 50' of face climbing. NIce golden rock; no pro as I recall. Gully then turns to a sandy hke, then back to 4th class, 5.0 and some 5.4 B4 you hit the 3rd/ 4th class North summit ridge
Dave Dinnell - Jan 11, 2004 1:07 pm
Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 7, 1997A fun short trip to do. Descended more directly down the west face.