Dürnstein is situated in the Wachau. Wachau is the valley formed by the Danube river between Melk and Krems (approx. 30 km). The area was settled in prehistoric times ("Venus of Willendorf" was discovered in the Wachau).
Beside Tourism the production of apricots and grapes is an important economic factor in the Wachau. In 2000 Wachau was added to the UNESCO list of world heritage sites.
Beside from the monastery Dürnstein is famous for its ruins above the town, where King Richard I of England (aka Richard the Lionheart) was held captive after his crusade in from December 1192 to March 1193. The castle was destroyed in 1645.
This page covers only the following areas around Dürnstein (btw. mostly Gföhler Gneis):
There are some other climbing areas in the Wachau like:
from Vienna: Franz Josefs Bahnhof to Krems from St. Pölten via Krems
Train Service is only provided in summer (daily in July, August, September; in April, May, June and October: Sat + Sun + public holidays)
There is also an bus connection from Krems to Dürnstein
from Salzburg/Linz: Highway A1 (Westautobahn) to Melk, cross the river Danube and follow the road (B3) to Dürnstein
from north (Czech Republic) head for Krems and follow road B3 to Dürnstein
btw. Parking is subject to charges in Dürnstein
;-) also possible - www.donaustationen.at
The climbing area in Dürnstein (near the ruins) is the oldest climbing area in the Wachau. The rocks around the ruins offer climbs for beginners but also more difficult routes.
rocks up to 20m - from Dürnstein walk up to the ruins of the castle (Donauturm, Adlerfelsen, Edelweissfelsen etc.) or start at train station an walk up (Spiegel, Bettinaturm and Däumling are easy to reach from the train station)
The area is situated between the ruin of Dürnstein and Kummerstal. In Jule 2009 the route Transamerikapfeiler at Donauuferfelsen was destroyed by a rockslide (after intense rain) in July 2009.
within the scope of the cleanup some of the rock had to be blasted - video
offers longer climbs (Don Bosco Grat, Wachauer Grat) follow B3 westwards to Spitz - parking approx. 250m after the tunnel; walk along the road another 500m turn right an follow a small trail up the valley to the climbs.
Hundreds of cylist do the Donauradweg
Use Vogelbergssteig when descending from Wachauer Grat or Don Bosco Grat!!
no campfires, in summer also smoking is forbidden!
The nearest camp sites are in Krems and in Rossatz-Arnsdorf (other riverside)
check the accomodation section of www.duernstein.at for a place to stay
After a nice day climbing stop at a Heuriger (wine garden) for a glass of new wine and some good local food - check the "Heurigen Calender" section at www.duernstein.at
Climbing in Wachau (also Dürnstein) Information in German only - sorry the website www.wachauclimbing.net is no longer available
www.duernstein.at (site also in English available)
Kletterführer Dürnstein (2 books) by Peter Dunst available at Souvenirshop Blondl in Dürnstein (book 1 might be sold out)