We camped at the Mill Creek Trailhead Saturday night. We hiked up the Deep Creek Trail, then left it at 10,000 feet to bushwhack up Mill Creek’s west side. We crossed Mill Creek below the waterfall, climbed a dry drainage east of Mill Creek, contoured on steep and loose terrain to the trail that heads northwest through the cliffs. We followed the trail, crossed Mill Creek again and began hiking up Dallas Peak’s steep, grassy south slopes. We passed the Sneffels Highline Trail and continued up the grassy slopes to the major gully on Dallas’ south face. We climbed in and to the right of the gully to the third class passage through the lower cliffs. We traversed northeast on loose terrain passing two small ridges and gained Dallas’ east face.
Dallas Peak from its East Face
We traversed north near Dallas’ east ridge, climbed west, the traversed south to the base of the first fourth class pitch. This was very straightforward scrambling. We continued west to the base of the summit tower finding the deep gully. I climbed the deep gully instead of the smaller gully just north of it. We knew this wasn’t the route, so I spent time investigating the area to see where we were relative to the route. When I discovered where we were and after much discussion, I convinced Wes to follow me.
Mount Sneffels from Dallas' East Ridge
Wes dropped his pack here and changed into his climbing shoes. We continued west on Dallas’ north face beyond the summit pitch. I began climbing 5.easy and 4th class terrain towards the summit while Wes investigated possible routes closer to the east ridge. After more discussion, I finally downclimbed the pitch I climbed and retreated back to Wes. He did find the correct summit pitch. I “led” the pitch placing only one piece of protection in order to guide the rope.
"West Dallas" from Dallas Peak
I reached the summit, anchored into the rappel slings and began belaying Wes up the pitch. Wes reached the summit, we untied from the rope, signed the register and rappelled down. It began raining just prior to my rappel. We rappelled the smaller, northern gully and downclimbed the rest of the route. We took the Sneffels Highline Trail and Deep Creek Trails back to the trailhead.
Red = Standard East Face Route, Blue = Stan's Shorctut (used on ascent)
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