I did the Devil's traverse from west to east. One of the tougher scrambles I've done but surprisingly manageable the whole way; it was a blast!
Started in Mineral Basin with Niko, on what was going to be a training run for Speedgoat. Got to the top of Sugarloaf, and saw that Devil's wasn't too far away. So Niko and I headed over. I made Niko sit and stay, just before the final pitch to the summit, cuz it looked too dicy. But then another guy came up the trail, and Niko thought he'd be more comfortable with me, than this stranger coming up behind him. So he jumped the gap, clung to the sturdy rock, and made his way over to me. I helped him route find to the summit, and he triumphantly laid down on top. Some of his maneuvers getting off the Castle impressed me most. I love that dog.
Climbed 11 times:
Went up in the afternoon, after I got off of work. Beautiful approach with the wildflowers in bloom. I stayed on the ridge as much as possible for the scrambling. The rock wasn't as bad as it looked but I sure tested every hand and foothold before trusting it.
Can't believe I waited so long to do this hike, but I was not disappointed. What a fun peak! Did a west to east traverse. Didn't stay directly on the ridge for the middle summit, but went around to the south & up the back side. Most of the scrambling much easier than it looks.
West to east loop via Albion campground TH. with Dennis.
I'll be honest I was scared to death while doing this. I completed it and I would go back and do this again. It really isn't as bad as it looks.
I climbed this peak with Rocky Alps. We did the west and the middle summits. It involved some fun, but exposed scrambling. We did Sugarloaf afterwards. The Albion Basin was beautiful with lots of wildflowers.
Can be climbed or "hiked" though exposure even on the standard walk/traverse there is a ton of exposure. Great thrill, spectacular views, and easily combined with Sugarloaf and another unnamed peak. The approach if timed right is through wildflower meadows also, though a cool winter climb could be done up the central gully splitting the face of the mountain.
Hit Sugarloaf, Baldy, and Hidden Peak as well.
9/10/2014 Traverse from East to West. From Catherine's Pass to Sunset and up and over Devil's Castle to Sugarloaf. Very fun, challenging traverse over Devil's Castle.
8/20/2012 Approached from the saddle between Sugarloaf and Devil's Castle. Traversed East across all three towers before returning to the saddle. Great scramble.
10/2/2013 Climbed from Albion Basin. From Devil's Castle I worked my way along the ridge to AF Twins. Returned the way I came to the saddle between Baldy and Sugarloaf and back to Cecret Lake.
Flew in from California at 11:45, on the trail with my son by 1:00. This was a cool hike, loved the views!
Excellent route. It was rated 11a in our guidebook but it wasn't that hard.
Scrambled free solo up the loose rocky couloir like an idiot.
Usually climb up Collins Gulch, over Sugarloaf and Devils, then down Albion. Good views of the resort.
8/24/11 East to West with Matt
6/30/14 Devil's to South Thunder
08/24/2011 With Jacob Moon
07/24/2010 3 AM
08/01/2008 West to East all summits with Justin Anderson
07/25/2008 East to West with Scott Wesemann
07/19/2007 with Justin Anderson, 4:20 AM start from the car at Albion Basin campground. Traversed the full Castle East to West, then hiked up to Sugarloaf and back down to cecret Lake and the car. We saw 3 moose: one bull and later, a mother and calf.
08/05/2006 with Joe Bullough and Justin Anderson. Hiked the full Castle from East to West as a Bullion Divide bonus, then we continued to Sugarloaf and the full Divide route to White Baldy.
Very fun! Despite the rock looking crumbly, it is very easy to climb and like many other large alpine climbs, you can usually find an easier route if you feel uncomfortable with the exposure.
08/16/06 Took Kim to all three towers and down Albion Basin