Very fun! Despite the rock looking crumbly, it is very easy to climb and like many other large alpine climbs, you can usually find an easier route if you feel uncomfortable with the exposure.
08/16/06 Took Kim to all three towers and down Albion Basin
I climbed this 3 times via 3 routes in the summer of 2011. It's some of my favorite rock climbing in the Wasatch. Big, dark, adventurous... What's not to love?
Here are links to my TRs (with pics) on my blog:
Black Streak (5.10c, 6 pitches)
Horns of Satan (5.10c, 8 pitches)
Portable Darkness (5.9+, 6 pitches)
I'll definitely be back to climb the rest of the routes.
Sometime in August of 07
6/27/2007 Did Sugarloaf first and then Devil's Castle. With lesdubois.
6/30/2001 Did American Fork Twin Peaks, Hidden Peak, Baldy, Sugarloaf, Devil's Castle, and 10864. With MM.
Very enjoyable and not as difficult as it might seem. Some parts of climbing required some concentration but were easy enough. It was good to meet BigNick and chat on top.
fun and easy :)
Did this today and met Madsjim and Madjohnbo near the Sugarloaf/DC saddle. They led the climb, I followed. I took a slightly different route to the 2nd summit and attained the ridge early and traversed to the mailbox. Signed the register, had a drink and on to the third. Great weather made for a pleasent half day hike. This makes #4 for these peaks.
Climbed via the Black Streak. This route was originally rated 5.11a but has been appropriately down graded to 5.10. I have also climbed Devil's Castle as a day hike. Offers some of the best view in the area.
We delayed a trip to Colorado due to weather, so our consolation was climbing this couloir and one on the Pfeifferhorn the day before. This one was a good, fun, steep snow climb with a bit of rock scrambling thrown in.
I've also done the standard scrambling route in the summer, which is a great, quick climb (can be done in under 2 hours roundtrip, definitely).
Cool knife ridge. I think it is probably closer to 3rd/4th class in difficulty, but this hike has some exciting exposure.
One of the couple peaks that I did in '05. Just started out hiking when I did this one and my love for scrambling kept growing.
Did it again this year '08 but can't remember the exact date. Hiked it after work, to enjoy the sunset on the summit.
Usually do it as a traverse, a few times summit only.
Climbed with Matthew Van Horn, doing all three summits East to West. This is an excellent scramble, giving you the best the Wasatch has to offer. I think it is harder to go East to West, because the down climbing is much more difficult. (See trip report)
Climbed with Ammon for a quick after work outing. Fun scramble for such a quick trip. We ended up coming down in the dark.
Went up after work for a quick hike with Travis Atwood. The sun was setting when we started scrambling, but we made it back past the sketchy sections before dark. Great scrambling with plenty of exposure to go around. Ran into climbingchic during the scrambling.
Climbed with Brenton Peterson on a fine, late-spring day; still a ton of snow hanging around this year.
August 27, 2016 - Mike Halls and I climbed Portable Darkness (six pitches). We swung leads, I took the first pitch. Approach from the campground was 35ish mins. Time on climb was about 3 hours. Scramble to peak was under 30 mins. Descent (walk off to the west) was about 1.5 hours.
August 11, 2012. Climbed the six pitch Portable Darkness Route then scrambled to the peak.
Start climbing at 12:04 pm. Here are our times (climbed with Scott C)...Both at top of p1 at 12:46 pm. Both at top of p2 at 1:41 pm, both at top of p3 at 1:57 pm, both at top of p4 at 2:34, both at top of p5 at 3:02, and both at top of p6 at 3:38 pm. 4:15 on the summit. 5:30 pm at Cecret lake, and 6:30 at the Alta parking lot.
April 5, 2008 While skiing at Alta, I put on my climbling skins and skinned up to the East Peak of Devils Castle (aka East Castle); I got right up on top so I could look down the South aspect. It only took about 30 minutes to do it from the Supreme lift at Alta. First time I did it was March 22, 2008, but I didn't bother with the views like I did this time.
East Castle is at 40.56603ºN / 111.61101ºW with an elevation of 10,880 ft.
Also today (April 5, 2008), I skinned up to the ridge between Sugarloaf and Devils Castle, and had a look down the south aspect. I was at 40.56528ºN / 111.61824ºW, about 0.6 km E (82°) of East Castle at an elevation of 10,800 ft.
Loved the views of Timp from both locations.
Bagged this in a quick afternoon with J. Parked at Alta then ascended via Cecret Lake, gained the ridge east of the peak and made our way up the scramble (sketchtastic!) to the summit, where we were surprised and pleased to find a couple from Colorado already up there. Great exposure and an excellent peak, looking forward to a technical ascent up Black Streak this summer.