August 27, 2016 - Mike Halls and I climbed Portable Darkness (six pitches). We swung leads, I took the first pitch. Approach from the campground was 35ish mins. Time on climb was about 3 hours. Scramble to peak was under 30 mins. Descent (walk off to the west) was about 1.5 hours.
August 11, 2012. Climbed the six pitch Portable Darkness Route then scrambled to the peak.
Start climbing at 12:04 pm. Here are our times (climbed with Scott C)...Both at top of p1 at 12:46 pm. Both at top of p2 at 1:41 pm, both at top of p3 at 1:57 pm, both at top of p4 at 2:34, both at top of p5 at 3:02, and both at top of p6 at 3:38 pm. 4:15 on the summit. 5:30 pm at Cecret lake, and 6:30 at the Alta parking lot.
April 5, 2008 While skiing at Alta, I put on my climbling skins and skinned up to the East Peak of Devils Castle (aka East Castle); I got right up on top so I could look down the South aspect. It only took about 30 minutes to do it from the Supreme lift at Alta. First time I did it was March 22, 2008, but I didn't bother with the views like I did this time.
East Castle is at 40.56603ºN / 111.61101ºW with an elevation of 10,880 ft.
Also today (April 5, 2008), I skinned up to the ridge between Sugarloaf and Devils Castle, and had a look down the south aspect. I was at 40.56528ºN / 111.61824ºW, about 0.6 km E (82°) of East Castle at an elevation of 10,800 ft.
Loved the views of Timp from both locations.
Bagged this in a quick afternoon with J. Parked at Alta then ascended via Cecret Lake, gained the ridge east of the peak and made our way up the scramble (sketchtastic!) to the summit, where we were surprised and pleased to find a couple from Colorado already up there. Great exposure and an excellent peak, looking forward to a technical ascent up Black Streak this summer.
Been wanting to climb Devil's Castle since last year. Scrambled up the boulder field to the colouir on the west side- only climbed to the first summit as I was just "exploring", but mean to come back soon and finish it off.
Camped out in the saddle meadow between Devil's Castle and Sugarloaf. Hiked up Sugarloaf to wake up and get warm, then came back and finished off Devil's Castle. Saw a huge moose on the way down- it was a good morning.
Wow, this peak has excellent exposure but still a fairly easy climb. Solid rock with maybe one low 5th (~5.2) move. This turned out to be easier than I thought it was, but more fun as well. Saw a goat pretty close on the way down. Tacked on Sugarloaf before just for fun.
My first time hitting all three towers, thanks to the able help of Lana & Broc. This is a fine little climb which makes the climber utilize a wide range of skills. The entire exercise took only 3 1/2 hours. I highly recommend this loop. (We crossed the ridgeline from west to east and descended after traversing eastward from the third tower maybe 300 yards.) #2 on 8-7-07 with Lana & Brent we topped them from west to east and then came back, touching each tower again and then followed the ridge to Haystack. Lots of fun scrambling. #3 8-29-07 My 3rd time atop all of the spires was part of a long ridge hike which began at the south Superior ridge and hooked around to the Snowbird tram. #4 10-19-10 W/ Dave. Alta Ridge Run from Cardiff Pass over Honeycomb Cliffs, etc. to and including the Castle. Astounding autumn colors below us and in LCC.
The dirt road up to Cecret Lake was closed for "dust control" thus added another 5 miles to the hike.
This hike is definitely my favorite short hike here in the wasatch! I put in all the scrambling/climbing I could! and I took my time...for once. lol got detailed pics. I started from cecret lake and topped the summit then headed east along the ridge. bumped into a deer, mtn goat. I love the exposure and the climbing! awesome hike!
This was my first time in the Albion Basin and I loved it! The views and exposure would be really hard to beat in any other trip that takes less than three hours car-to-car. Threw in Sugarloaf on the way down since it was so close. Saw several moose, including a massive bull near the campground and a smaller cow on a plateau above the lake.
What a fun climb! I will do this again and again.
First time August 1996. Don't remember if we had intended to complete the traverse, but were intimidated by the east peak and went back down the west side. Our route to top out the west peak was on the American Fork side of the ridge.
Second time Aug 21 2011. Topped the west peak on the LCC side this time, seemed much better. Watched two guys complete the traverse, which was educational as to the route, but one in our party was sketched out between the west and middle peak so we stuck together. I went to the middle one myself, but was sorta glad for the excuse not to expose myself on the east one. I can't speak for that section, but as for the west and middle (true) peaks, I don't see where there were any 5th class moves.
Devil's Castle is a must due. It only takes a few hours and the views are awesome.
This was a very enjoyable hike/scramble and I feel it's by far the best of its length in the Wasatch. It was really short (up and back in 3 hours), but after leaving the crowds at Cecret Lake and getting up to the ridge, the scrambling/climbing was really fun and the rock quality was much better than most other places in the Wasatch range. I only tagged the western summit since my wife didn't want to do any difficult scrambling that day (9/4/06).
Came back with David and climbed to the highest middle summit from the west on 7/16/13. The exposed scrambling was really fun, and the various summits do look a lot like the towers of a castle when you're up on them. See "Best Bang For Your Buck" trip report for details.
08/01/2008 West to East with Matt
Climbed twice from east to west.
08/05/2006 as part of the Bullion Divide with Matt and Joe
07/19/2007 with Matt in combination with Sugarloaf.
Once again! an awesome hike every time. came from cecret lake, to the pass and then stuck to the ridge. the scrambling and tiny bit of climbing were great! a little nervous with the wind and the weather wasnt the best, but still a cool hike!! hopefully will do it again this year. yeah!
East to west. Exposure and challenging scrambling made for a very interesting hike. Mountain goats encountered on the descent.
Came up from cecret lake to the ridge between the devils and sugarloaf. I then ridgewalked over to it.
Climbed many times by several routes : Black Streak, Ridge Traverse, Couloir. All good.
This is a great peak and a fun climb, but how can people call it Class 5 by the standard route? Have they been on real Class 5 routes, or is the Wasatch idea of Class 5 more liberal than that in other places? (I guess one thing in Utah must be liberal) I would call the climbs to the summit towers Class 3+/4. Stay away if you don't like exposure, though, especially on the ridge above Cecret Lake.
This was fun. Good 4th class scrambling and easier than I thought it would be. I climbed over all of the summits to make sure that I made it to the top. I couldn't tell which one was higher. I think it was the middle summit.