"Directa Cara Sur", " Hermanos Martínez"

Approach

A In order to reach the base of the route a long hour (may be an hour and a half) is necessary from Urriellu Hut. To do it in the same day from Sotres or Pandébano is another possibility if we do not want to do night in the Urriellu Hut, I believe this last option being much more exhausting (non advisable). The "Canal de la Celada" is better hiked up by its left side. By the right side a exists a possibility, something more direct although more uncomfortable due to the great amount of loose stones by the narrow channel (faster option to get down, but also a greater risk of stones falling). To reach the base of the route to the height of a staggered rocky slope of white color, more or less by half of the South face and immediately under a comfortable dark hole in the face that constitutes the first belay about 15 meters and something up-right. It is highly suggested to be with the helmet already on by this time, since a lot of stones usually fall.

Route Description

First Pitch: (15 m, V -): It is "a short" length. It leaves by organ pipes or narrow channels. The most difficult step is to about 2 or 3 meters of the ground and is crux of the route. Itis very short, and it is protected well with friends large & medium (camalot 1 & 2). A quick decision move and will be reaching the whole that is a bit to the right where we started the climb.

Second Pitch: (40 m, IV): making a brief passage to the right to stand in a washed out tiny ledge and raise through a moderate section with good holds. There is a slightly more difficult variation going straight (V). Follow up and rightwards with good holds where we will be finding up to three pegs and some old cords u. It is easy to skip some of the pegs, although the length is protected well with some nuts mainly small and with cords. There is some long distance between protections, but the holds are impressive. Keeping up until reaching a comfortable cave to the foot of a dihedral.

Third Pitch: (30 m, Iii): straight up by an evident clean fissure that it is protected without problems until arriving at the third belay

Fourth Pitch: (40 m, IV+): pretty pitch that goes by precious organ pipes formation. You leave ascending in diagonal until arriving at a deep ledge where is belay 4.

Fifth Pitch: (40 m, III+): a long slab that we follow going up an rightwards

From ´this point it is advisable to scramble with out ropes, due to stone falling to the climbers below. Follow searching for the easiest way to reach the col between the two summits. And from there left and up to the summit.

CONGRATULATIONS, YOU MADE IT !!!!

Essential Gear

Rock climbing technics and gear is necesary. There are about 70 other routes on the mountain, and only a few of them are relalatively easy; the rest are long, difficult and exposed. Standard climbing rack recomended (helmet, two ropes, nuts and friends). Nevertheless climbing "Naranjo de Bulnes" by any of its routes would be worthwhile and incredibly grateful. I hope you get to climb it !!

Descend

Descending is via the same route abseiling down. Special precautions should be taken scrambling and rappeling down due to to stone falling.

Information

All info gathered by:
Jonás Cruces
Mountain Guide & Rock + Ice Climbing Instructor
This is his website: www.todovertical.com