Direkte Nordwand

Direkte Nordwand

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 47.43070°N / 11.06023°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)
Additional Information Difficulty: UIAA V
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 10
Additional Information Grade: II
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

The Direkte Nordwand is a popular way to climb the Bernadeinwand. It has 10 pitches of solid rock, and has a nice line visible from the base. The route has bolted belay stations, and a mixture of bolts, old pitons and some gear placements along it's length.

It also has an easy walk down. It's a fantastic climb if you want some multipitch rock, and sweeping views but only have a 1/2 day to spare.

The route was first climbed by H. Bammert and H. Hintermeier in 1939.

Getting There

The 5.8 cruxAidan at the crux on pitch 8.

See the Bernadeinwand page for detailed directions.

To reach the base of the climb, follow the Schöngänge trail steeply up scree directly towards the wall. Leave the trail on a (very) faint path and move left and up about 5 minutes to stand below slabby rock. Look for bolts in here which protect a nice III+ (5.4) first pitch. You should see a darker steep chimney above you, which is pitch two (some topos show the chimney as pitch one). You could also follow the Schöngänge Trail a bit further, then leave it on the left to start climbing directly at the chimney (which I'll call pitch 2).



Route Description

Direkte Nordwand, BernadeinwandThe route.

Each pitch is under 50 meters.

After the first, straightforward slabby pitch, find a belay bolt on the right of a near-vertical chimney/gully. Climb the gully then continue up and right on a slabby ramp (bolts). IV.

Pitch 3: Continue up the ramp, then emerge on a scree bench. Escape the bench after a few meters of rightward walking by following a depression steeply up to a belay. III.

Pitch 4: Continue up from the belay about 6 meters, then traverse left for another 8 meters to reach a belay. IV.

Pitch 5: From the belay, move awkwardly left to enter a chimney, and climb it up, going slightly left when forced by bulges. V-.

Pitch 6: Continue steeply up and slightly left to belay in a gully. IV+.

Pitch 7: Continue up in the same gully with little protection, then skirt below a lighter-colored wall to reach a belay on the right. IV.

Pitch 8: Climb a steep crack with hard moves right off the belay (a good place to place hand-sized cams), then trending left up the crack/chimney system. Another tough move at half-height requires skirting around a chockstone on the left side. V.

Pitch 9: Steep but blocky and solid climbing leads up a left-trending ramp as far as you'd like to go. Easy but fun. IV.

Pitch 10: A final bit of scrambling brings you directly up to grassy slopes just east of the summit. III.

A TOPO of the route is available in the book Alpines Genussklettern (very nice book to have, recommended!).

A complete set of the routes on the wall with topos for many of them are in the comprehensive "bible" to the Wetterstein Range: Wetterstein, by Stefan Beulke.

Essential Gear

Aidan on pitch 4Pitch 4 climbs a crack system under a bulge.
8 quickdraws, 4 slings with carabiners, a few medium-sized cams. Double ropes if you want to be able to get down in a rainstorm and be sure to avoid leaving gear.

A 50 meter rope(s) is sufficient.


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.