Dorigatti/Giambisi

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.52870°N / 11.84190°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: V+ UIAA scale
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 8
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

This page will be kept in honour of Stefan Weber, the SP member known as kletterwebbi, the former owner of this page, died on May 28th 2004 in Southern France at the age of 37.   

 

Piz da Lec de Boè, Via Dorigatti - Giambisi 

In the Eastern sector of the extensive Sella massifBoè Subgroup, we find a little known small group of three beautiful peaks that enclose to the North the Vallon basin: from left to right we see Sasso delle Nove 2904 m (Sass dals Nü in ladin), Sass dal Diesc 2916 m, the highest one, even if for a handful of meters, situated in the middle between the other two ones and Piz da Lec de Boè 2911 m, the Northernmost. These fascinating peaks overlook with their stunning East walls the Vallon basin, the adiacent Rifugio Kostner and Val di Mesdì on the opposite side. 

Vallon summits annotated view
Vallon summits annotated view

Piz da Lec de Boè shows a wild, steep and rarely climbed NW face, a lower and more frequented South face and an easier East flank.  On the left part of the South wall it runs the route Dorigatti - Giambisi, an exposed climb taking place along the dark wall clearly visible from the Refuge Kostner. The route runs on the left of the obvious chimneys of the route Castiglioni Chimneys and not far from the SW ridge. The quality of the rock is always very good and the route is sufficiently equipped.

 

Getting there

The starting point to approach is the village of Corvara , located in the homonymous Val Badia.

Road access to Corvara in Badia-

From Bolzano: follow the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Bressanone and then follow the Val Pusteria road to Brunico. In Brunico turn to right, following the Val Badia road to Pedraces and La Villa. In La Villa take on the right the road to Corvara.

Route Description

The Dorigatti/Gambisi route...
The Dorigatti/Gambisi route...

 

Piz da Lech – Via Dorigatti - Giambisi report (UIAA scale)

Summit altitude: m 2911
Difficulty: max V+ UIAA
Route length: 200 m
Exposure: East
First ascent: Alberto Dorigatti - Almo Giambisi
Starting point: Refuge Kostner or Corvara in Badia

A very advisable climb. The itinerary runs on a line of cracks and chimneys on the East wall of Piz da Lec. All the belay are equipped with at least one peg.
Along the pitches there are few pegs. It is necessary to bring slings and friends to integrate.

Approach

Start at Corvara and take the cable car to Crep de Munt. From there take the Vallon chair-lift (or hike up direction F.-Kostner hut). Leaving the lift system behind, take the path n 638 to the right. The first mountain encountered is the Piz da Lec. Almost at the height of the saddle separating it from the Sasso delle Dieci, named "Moserscharte", leave the main path in the direction of a small cone-shaped rock. Before reaching its base, turn to right along a scree to a small ledge at the base of the very left part of the South face. In the middle of the ledge there is a dihedral-crak. The starting point is marked by a peg and a hole with a sling. 

L1 - Climb up the steep crack, then climb righthand on easier ground for some meters to a stance, IV, III, 40 m
L2 - Climb to the right of the stance, then enters the gully to the right to a stance below a chimney, III+, 25 m
L3 - Climb up the chimney.  After the first few meters the chimney widens. Continue up to a stance, IV+, 30

L4 - Up the chimney to a stance near a roof and a yellow niche. The belay is just below the niche, at the start of the great traverse, IV-, 25 m
L5 - From the belay traverse to the left following the gray rock. Just before the edge there is a stance, IV, V, 20 m 
L6 - Beautiful exposed climbing, crux pitch. Climb the small wall above the stance for a few meters, then traverse a bit to the right to avoid the overhang. then up the wall and continue to the left along compact rock, ignoring the belay you meet. Up the slab vertically until you reach the stance, V, IV+, 30 m
L7 - Climb the wall to a yellow dihedral, up the dihedral then reach a comfortable terrace to the left, IV+, 30 m 
L8 - Climb the left wall, then the ridge  and on easier ground to the summit plateau, IV, III, 35 m
From the last stance walk up in the right direction to take the path that leads to the summit in about 50 m of vertical gain.

Descent: from the summit cross a few meters to the north, then descend to the right along the Normal route to reach a vertical wall, which is descended by some iron steps. Head to the right and with some other equipped sections reach the Vallon.

Essential Gear


Rope 2x50 m (recommended), rocks, friends (up to camelot 3), slings, maybe some pitons, helmet

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking.

Hut

Sasso delle Nove and Rifugio Kostner close-up from Col de Stagn
Rifugio Kostner

 

 

Rifugio Franz Kostner m 2550

Situation: located on a large debris terrace at the mouth of Vallon, under the walls of Cima Vallon and Pala delle Guide Pala, Sella Group
Open: 1 of July - 30 of September
Size: 33 pers.
Owner: C.A.I. Bolzano 
Guardian: Emanuel Agreiter
Hut's phone 0039-3338759838
Guardian's phone: 0039-0471/836757
Getting There: from Corvara in Badia by cable car + chair lift

When to climb

The best season to climb goes from June to September

Meteo

Meteo Bolzano Alto Adige
Meteo Trentino
ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO - Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA - Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

Arrampicare in Val Gardena e dintorni I guidebook
Arrampicare in Val Gardena e dintorni II -  Guidebook
Guidebook Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali

 

Arrampicare in Val Gardena - Mauro Bernardi
Arrampicare Dolomiti Nord-Occidentali Vol I - M. Bertolotti - L. Galbiati – F. Vascellari Collana Mountain Geographic
Kompass f. 616 1:30000 Provincia di Belluno Arabba-Marmolada
Tabacco ff. 06–07 1:25000

In Memory of Stefan "kletterwebbi" Weber

A note from the SP staff
Stefan Weber, the member we all used to know from his climbing pseudonym kletterwebbi, died on May 28th 2004 in southern France at the age of 37.
Stefan joined SP early on in 2002 and contributed a number of excellent pages and routes to this site. He was an accomplished climber excelling in difficult alpine and technical routes. The Dolomites, especially the area around Gröden / Val Gardena were special to him, as it was his old ancestral home. Kletterwebbi was always willing to share his knowledge and experience with other climbers, mainly here on SP, but also on other sites. He contributed his IT expertise as webmaster of his local section of the German Alpine Club, where he also engaged in leading trips for fellow members. Besides his climbing and mountaineering activities he was a musician, a composer of contemporary music. Stefan will be greatly missed by us all.
This page will be kept in honor of kletterwebbi, one of SP's most talented, knowledgeable members, and without a doubt, one of our greatest fellow mountaineers.
The picture was taken on the summit ridge of Lyskamm.



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.