Dorigatti/Giambisi

Page Type
Route
Location:
Dolomiten, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Rock Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5+

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Dorigatti/Giambisi
Created On: Sep 5, 2003
Last Edited On: May 10, 2004

Approach


Start at Corvara and take the cable car to Crep de Munt. From there take the Valbon chair-lift (or hike up direction F.-Kostner hut). From the top station of the chair lift a good path is visible below the S-faces of Boèseekofel, Zehner and Neuner. Follow this path for about 10 minutes until one reaches a point below the col between Boèseekofel and Zehner . This col is called "Moserscharte". Hike up the gully to the Moserscharte until it's possible to reach a prominent ledge at the base of the very left part of the S-face. There the climb starts.

When we climbed it there was a good visible sling at the base of the climb.

Route Description


Pitch 1: climb up a steep crack up to a ledge then climb righthand for some meters to a stance (5-)

Pitch 2: Traverse right for about 5 meters, then climb up easier cracks to a stance below a chimney (3+)

Pitch 3: Climb up the chimney and the following cracks to the beginning of the great traverse (5-)

Pitch 4: Climb the traverse, stance is below the left border of the overhang above the traverse (5+)

Pitch 5: Climb the overhang (5+)

Pitch 6: Climb the black wall above the overhang then climb lefthand to a ledge. It's not easy to find the correct way at this pitch, there are some pitons in place (5+)

Pitch 7: Continue on yellow rock on cracks up to a stance at a pedestal at the main ridge. Looks as it would be bad rock, but thats not true: very good rock also at this pitch (4+/5-).

Pitch 8: Climb on easier rock up to the top (3+)

Essential Gear


Double rope (recommended), rocks, friends (up to camelot 3), slings, maybe some pitons, helmet

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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