'Droga po głazach', which can be translated as the Route over slabs, is one of the easiest routes leading to the summit of Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki/Veľký Mengusovský štit. The route is unmarked and navigation can become surprisingly difficult, even if the weather is favourable, so it is advisable to go with someone who has done the route before. The best time to go is from July to October, depending on the weather, which should be perfect considering route finding issues, unless you hire a guide.
From Morskie Oko take the red stripe trail (the eastern variant is a bit shorter) to Czarny Staw (Black Tarn), from where the green marks will lead you to Mięguszowiecka Przełęcz pod Chłopkiem (literally Pass under the Little Bloke) or Mengusovské sedlo (the Slovak name): Please see this page. From the pass, in theory you can only continue with a licensed Tatra guide (see the Red Tape chapter on the parent page).
here), follow the horizontal path for several metres, then start climbing upwards when you have turned the rib that borders on the light-coloured chute (a kind of broad chute made up of slabs) dropping from Mięguszowiecka Przełęcz Wyżnia/Vyšné Mengusovské sedlo - I (yatsek) would say at the obvious place. I kept to the left-hand edge of the slabby chute. After a few dozen metres there was an easy turning to the right and soon - high above me - I saw the edge of the 'first' ramp, which is called Pośrednia Mięguszowiecka Ławka/Prostredná Mengusovská lávka. From there I continued my ascent, again sticking to the left-hand side of the steep slope (up a kind of dihedral) to finally traverse right, nearly contouring to the edge of the ramp. However, having read the imprecise descriptions of this stretch of the route by the most renowned guidebook authors, I am not sure that my variant here (close to what is marked by Gorzi on his photo above) is the recommended one, which can probably be seen in this video (done in the opposite direction).
Gorzi says - relatively hard: Please click on the photo on the right.) When you are five metres below the crest, to your right, you will see a rather broad, smooth, looking slippery, ledge with a granite block barring the way under the overhanging wall. The classic variant of our route leads along that ledge and requires crawling or at least kneeling. After following the ledge for about ten metres, you resume climbing up. The holds - according to guidebooks and various TRs (neither of the authors of the page has done this variant) - are good.
Although the rock difficulty scale traditionally used in Polish guidebooks to the Tatras is said to be almost identical to the UIAA scale used in Slovakia, in practice it does differ from the latter in that it - or at least its bottom, which I have investigated - seems to be tougher, which means that a Polish grade 0+ ('easy') can actually be an equivalent of a UIAA grade I, a Polish grade I ('a bit difficult') will often be like a UIAA grade II and so on. Differences between the ratings of a particular route can be from half to one and a half grade points. Last but not least, the UIAA ratings that most Westerners are used to do not seem to be any tougher than the Slovak ones, which sometimes agree with the Polish version. So, I have come to think that if you want to get a fairly 'safe' UIAA grade for a scrambling route in the Tatras, the following formula will work, most of the time: UIAA grade = Polish grade + 1 Route statistics Time up: 5hrs from Morskie Oko Hut Net elevation gain: 1043m Total elevation gain: approx. 1200m Rock difficulty: Polish grade I / Slovak sources: UIAA I-II / my guess: YDS 4-5.0
Under summer conditions: normal hiking gear, a helmet is a good idea; a rope and a few loops may also be useful, especially while doing the crest climb.
Under winter conditions (according to dynercia; in my opinion the route does not make sense under winter conditions): crampons, ice axe, rope, a few loops and ice screws.
Please see the parent page.
Photo TR by R. Szadkowski, Tatra guide. The party chose 'Droga po głazach' for the descent. The variant they opted for just below the peak is different from what is described here in chapter 3.