Please note the following route changes and information (august 2016):
Ascent to new Monte Rosa hut:
Coming from Rotenboden descend to Gornergletscher (2016: woodbridge over the bergschrund); follow the route marked with red wooden poles descending the Gornergletscher to the middle moraine between Gorner and Grenzgletscher. Traverse the middle moraine zone - this one changes every year! - to the rim of the Grenzgletscher. The new ascent route barely touches the rim of Grenzgletscher and heads for the moraine zone east of Grenzgletscher, ascending to the glacier lake (point 2599 m on swiss topo maps). It continues up the ridge northwest of new Monte Rosa Hütte up to the hut and is markes with blue dots and arrows.
Don´t use the old route, traversing Grenzgletscher up to 2640 m and ascending the slabs and polished bedrocks by means of ropes and iron cramps. These securings are no longer maintained!
Ascend from new Monte Rosa Hütte:
1. The route between Monte Rosa Hütte and Obere Plattje (glacier rim) is now marked with red wood poles and blue dots / arrows and sometimes blue "D"´s. The route uses now the moraine zone and no longer the polished bedrocks between Untere and Obere Plattje. The latter is now water protection zone so please follow the new marks!
2. Normally the descent from Dufourspitze is via the north chute down to Silbersattel with the help of fixed ropes. By doing so you avoid two-way-traffic on the west arete of Dufourspitze which really can be a pain in the ..... In August 2016 there was a rock slide in the chute area and the ropes were damaged. The zone is still dangerous. Please ask the hut staff for actual information.
selinunte01 - Aug 13, 2016 8:37 am - Voted 10/10
New routesPlease note the following route changes and information (august 2016):
Ascent to new Monte Rosa hut:
Coming from Rotenboden descend to Gornergletscher (2016: woodbridge over the bergschrund); follow the route marked with red wooden poles descending the Gornergletscher to the middle moraine between Gorner and Grenzgletscher. Traverse the middle moraine zone - this one changes every year! - to the rim of the Grenzgletscher. The new ascent route barely touches the rim of Grenzgletscher and heads for the moraine zone east of Grenzgletscher, ascending to the glacier lake (point 2599 m on swiss topo maps). It continues up the ridge northwest of new Monte Rosa Hütte up to the hut and is markes with blue dots and arrows.
Don´t use the old route, traversing Grenzgletscher up to 2640 m and ascending the slabs and polished bedrocks by means of ropes and iron cramps. These securings are no longer maintained!
Ascend from new Monte Rosa Hütte:
1. The route between Monte Rosa Hütte and Obere Plattje (glacier rim) is now marked with red wood poles and blue dots / arrows and sometimes blue "D"´s. The route uses now the moraine zone and no longer the polished bedrocks between Untere and Obere Plattje. The latter is now water protection zone so please follow the new marks!
2. Normally the descent from Dufourspitze is via the north chute down to Silbersattel with the help of fixed ropes. By doing so you avoid two-way-traffic on the west arete of Dufourspitze which really can be a pain in the ..... In August 2016 there was a rock slide in the chute area and the ropes were damaged. The zone is still dangerous. Please ask the hut staff for actual information.
markhallam - Aug 13, 2016 11:21 am - Hasn't voted
Re: New routesThanks for this. Big glaciers and mountains do have a habit of changing...
AlpineTrails - Aug 25, 2016 11:12 am - Voted 10/10
No more fixed ropes!!August 2016:
On the ascent, there are is no more fixed rope on the chimney before the summit.
On the descent: The fixed rope down to Silbersattel has been cut. If you plan to abseil make sure you have enough rope with you.