E ridge of Kukova spica

E ridge of Kukova spica

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.44750°N / 13.85450°E
Additional Information Route Type: steep slope, small face and very steep ridge
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: steep scramble after the scree, UIAA III / II
Sign the Climber's Log


From Mojstrana in Sava valley, you drive (or walk) into the beautiful Vrata valley. Half way into the valley there's Koca pri Pericniku (mountain hut) and on the right side of the road Pericnik waterfall itself (10 minutes walk). You proceed by the road and in the middle of the first steeper rise you will see a big scree (gravel), coming down from the right (from below Kukova spica), like a river. This is called Crlovec, in the upper part being a long ravine. There's a trailhead and also a parking place.

Route Description

The trail starts on the left side of the 'gravel river', looking upwards. You will soon spot red marks of the trail which lead you across the scree of Crlovec and then upwards along its right edge (looking upwards). The path leads you in several turns through woods, after an hour or so you will see, that a similar ravine (Mali Crlovec = Small Crlovec) is also on your right side. Just below the altitude of 1500m (see the map!) you must be careful. A much better marked path goes right, towards Sleme and Vrtaska planina (huts), but you must keep allways left. On this place the path is a bit hard to follow, it finally crosses the ravine of Veliki Crlovec and becomes more visible. After that route goes Normal approach on Kukova spica .

But you must go up after the upper part of Veliki Cerlovec ravine. At the end of ravine you must turn left on the nice steep grasses which lead you to the small rock wall. You climb it. It is not too hard maybe UIAA II-.
Then you cross to the right below the start of the SE ridge og Kukova spica. After long walk to the right you come to the steep long screes and you scramble their almost to the end. Then you are already very high at the 2200m altitude and you go and climb right to the small pass in E ridge just after the Vrh nad Muzici (2227m). Now you are on the E ridge and you must climb very narrow ridge with one place III and a lot of places II but the ridge is very nice and climbing becomes enjoyment.

You cannot miss the "route" on the ridge but in lower part you must be careful that you take good passages.

You descend after normal route after SW ridge and the south slopes.

Essential Gear

Rope, helmet and things for climbing and protecting

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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