Earth Angel, 5.10

5th Pitch- 45m- 5.10-/ A lot is made to do over this pitch on MP.com. To me the pitch was straight forward and protected well. It was much easier for me than the second pitch and not near as run out as I was led to believe. Ignore the crack straight above and follow easy ground up and right to the base of a finger crack (can’t see from the belay) with features. Place several small pieces (some off-set cams and small to medium wires work well here) and climb the small crack with good foot edges past a mank bolt (great C4 #.4 here, so no need to clip the bolt, it is useless anyway) and continue past a decent piton (2012) and another solid small cam placement at the top of this crack/runnel. Then traverse right on easy ground to huge jugs (much larger than conventional “chicken heads” as they have been referred to). Sling the first one to protect your second and then head straight up on more jugs to the large flat ledge below the summit. This section is not near as run-out as typical Jtree or Red Rock 5th class finishes. Establish a gear belay in the floor or use the tree. Earth Angel, 5.10, 6 Pitches, Earth Angel Spire, Sedona, AZ, 2012