East Buttress of Middle Cathedral

Page Type
Trip Report
California, United States, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Jun 1, 1999
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Created On: Jul 21, 2005
Last Edited On:
Met Duncan at Yosemite Lodge around 9pm. I had never climbed with him before so we spent a few minutes getting to know each other. After agreeing on the rack, we decided to meet up at about 6am the following am to get an early start on this notoriously crowded route. I was tired from the long drive from Orange County so I drove off and went to sleep. SATURDAY: Duncan drove up to where I was camping and woke me up at about 6am. We drove over to the Cathedral trail and whipped up some quick breakfast. We were on the trail by about 7am and at the base of the climb by about 7:30am. There were 2 parties in front of us ALREADY!! It was going to be a slow day. Party #1 bailed after the 3rd pitch just as I was getting ready to lead the first pitch. So that put just 1 party in front of us. Not too bad after all. I lead the first 4 pitches running pitches 1&2 and 3&4 together. This seemed pretty natural so I guess most parties must link them this way. Pulling the roof after the bolt ladder is a way-cool move. Best single move on the route IMO. Duncan turned out to be a good partner and I had a great time.


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