wdimpfl - Dec 29, 2017 3:23 am Date Climbed: Nov 10, 1971
Hiked back barefoot
Climbed this with Louis Reichard, spending two days (short days in November), bivouacking in slings on top of nose just before the crux. We hiked back down the Yosemite Falls Trail. I had to hike in bare feet through snow on the trail as my climbing shoes were too tight.
atavist - Jan 26, 2015 7:53 am Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2014
Rappel in darkness
Re climbed the route with Dave on my last day in the Valley. Memorable route though I forgot the traverse was so far on the last pitch. Still took awhile to figure out. Had a late start, around 11am if I recall, then rapped in the dark.
asmrz - Oct 15, 2012 6:01 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 1982
East Buttress,Memorial Weekend, 1982
Miguel Carmona and I climbed the route in 1982, in some 6 hours up with 2.5 hours to get down via East Ledges. The East Buttress is one of the classic early climbs in Yosemite and today it's a bit neglected. It should not be. It's a good route on good rock and in great location.
Vitaliy M. - Oct 15, 2012 5:14 pm Date Climbed: Oct 14, 2012
East Buttress
Cool climb. Led 1st than 3/4 (linked), and evens after. 11 hours c2c (7 hours or so on route itself) from El Cap meadow. Descending East Ledges during day-light is a must (for the first time at least). Fun route. A lot of varied climbing.
If you don't believe in aid, this the el cap route for you. while nominally 10b for a move or 2, stout 5.9 is more accurate. crux is the ow 5th pitch. 1st pitch is also a bit burl, as is the 5.8 roof...but if you're very solid on yosemite 5.9 you should definitely enjoy this one...
Bonesaw - Oct 6, 2009 10:16 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009
37th Birthday
Great route! 5.9 lieback felt a tad bit harder than short 10b section. Awesome exposure on the last few pitches!!!
atavist - Aug 25, 2008 2:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2008
crux for breakfast
- My partner and I climbed the route in 8 long pitches with a 60m(I led the odd pitches). The pitch description on the route page is right on. We combined pitch 7 and 8.
- To dodge the heat we started the approach around 5pm. Darkness fell while my partner was building the second anchor.
- We bivied on the small ledges near the second station. At first light, I rapped down and dropped our bivy gear and haul line then reclimbed the crux pitch. It was much more enjoyable during daylight hours and when I wasn't carrying my overnight pack.
- The 5.9 lieback and off-width on our 6th pitch felt hard (linked 8th and 9th pitch of the Reid guide). This whole pitch is fairly technical and well sustained.
- Our 7th pitch (start of 10th pitch of Reid guide) makes a sharp traverse to the right then drops and keeps going right another 10 feet before ascending. Use long runners and run it out, otherwise break it in two as described in most topos. We had to simul so I could reach the next belay ledge.
surfarn73 - Feb 1, 2019 4:14 am
Varied climbingPerfect climb
wdimpfl - Dec 29, 2017 3:23 am Date Climbed: Nov 10, 1971
Hiked back barefootClimbed this with Louis Reichard, spending two days (short days in November), bivouacking in slings on top of nose just before the crux. We hiked back down the Yosemite Falls Trail. I had to hike in bare feet through snow on the trail as my climbing shoes were too tight.
atavist - Jan 26, 2015 7:53 am Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2014
Rappel in darknessRe climbed the route with Dave on my last day in the Valley. Memorable route though I forgot the traverse was so far on the last pitch. Still took awhile to figure out. Had a late start, around 11am if I recall, then rapped in the dark.
asmrz - Oct 15, 2012 6:01 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 1982
East Buttress,Memorial Weekend, 1982Miguel Carmona and I climbed the route in 1982, in some 6 hours up with 2.5 hours to get down via East Ledges. The East Buttress is one of the classic early climbs in Yosemite and today it's a bit neglected. It should not be. It's a good route on good rock and in great location.
Vitaliy M. - Oct 15, 2012 5:14 pm Date Climbed: Oct 14, 2012
East ButtressCool climb. Led 1st than 3/4 (linked), and evens after. 11 hours c2c (7 hours or so on route itself) from El Cap meadow. Descending East Ledges during day-light is a must (for the first time at least). Fun route. A lot of varied climbing.
zoomloco - Jul 16, 2011 6:43 pm
only way to free el capIf you don't believe in aid, this the el cap route for you. while nominally 10b for a move or 2, stout 5.9 is more accurate. crux is the ow 5th pitch. 1st pitch is also a bit burl, as is the 5.8 roof...but if you're very solid on yosemite 5.9 you should definitely enjoy this one...
Bonesaw - Oct 6, 2009 10:16 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009
37th BirthdayGreat route! 5.9 lieback felt a tad bit harder than short 10b section. Awesome exposure on the last few pitches!!!
atavist - Aug 25, 2008 2:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2008
crux for breakfast- My partner and I climbed the route in 8 long pitches with a 60m(I led the odd pitches). The pitch description on the route page is right on. We combined pitch 7 and 8.
- To dodge the heat we started the approach around 5pm. Darkness fell while my partner was building the second anchor.
- We bivied on the small ledges near the second station. At first light, I rapped down and dropped our bivy gear and haul line then reclimbed the crux pitch. It was much more enjoyable during daylight hours and when I wasn't carrying my overnight pack.
- The 5.9 lieback and off-width on our 6th pitch felt hard (linked 8th and 9th pitch of the Reid guide). This whole pitch is fairly technical and well sustained.
- Our 7th pitch (start of 10th pitch of Reid guide) makes a sharp traverse to the right then drops and keeps going right another 10 feet before ascending. Use long runners and run it out, otherwise break it in two as described in most topos. We had to simul so I could reach the next belay ledge.
gremlin - Dec 11, 2007 11:49 pm
polishedtoo bad it follows a waterfall, since the only downside is the polished rock on the upper 2/3 of the route
MichaelJ - Oct 16, 2007 1:41 am Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2007
FunClimbed with Tom Fralich. Almost every pitch was interesting. I found the crux a bit trickier than expected but enjoyed the whole day.
stoneman5 - Sep 10, 2006 12:25 am
classicafter a couple years out, this was a nice re-introduction to keep my psyched