Climbed this with Louis Reichard, spending two days (short days in November), bivouacking in slings on top of nose just before the crux. We hiked back down the Yosemite Falls Trail. I had to hike in bare feet through snow on the trail as my climbing shoes were too tight.
Re climbed the route with Dave on my last day in the Valley. Memorable route though I forgot the traverse was so far on the last pitch. Still took awhile to figure out. Had a late start, around 11am if I recall, then rapped in the dark.
Miguel Carmona and I climbed the route in 1982, in some 6 hours up with 2.5 hours to get down via East Ledges. The East Buttress is one of the classic early climbs in Yosemite and today it's a bit neglected. It should not be. It's a good route on good rock and in great location.
Cool climb. Led 1st than 3/4 (linked), and evens after. 11 hours c2c (7 hours or so on route itself) from El Cap meadow. Descending East Ledges during day-light is a must (for the first time at least). Fun route. A lot of varied climbing.
If you don't believe in aid, this the el cap route for you. while nominally 10b for a move or 2, stout 5.9 is more accurate. crux is the ow 5th pitch. 1st pitch is also a bit burl, as is the 5.8 roof...but if you're very solid on yosemite 5.9 you should definitely enjoy this one...
Great route! 5.9 lieback felt a tad bit harder than short 10b section. Awesome exposure on the last few pitches!!!
- My partner and I climbed the route in 8 long pitches with a 60m(I led the odd pitches). The pitch description on the route page is right on. We combined pitch 7 and 8.
- To dodge the heat we started the approach around 5pm. Darkness fell while my partner was building the second anchor.
- We bivied on the small ledges near the second station. At first light, I rapped down and dropped our bivy gear and haul line then reclimbed the crux pitch. It was much more enjoyable during daylight hours and when I wasn't carrying my overnight pack.
- The 5.9 lieback and off-width on our 6th pitch felt hard (linked 8th and 9th pitch of the Reid guide). This whole pitch is fairly technical and well sustained.
- Our 7th pitch (start of 10th pitch of Reid guide) makes a sharp traverse to the right then drops and keeps going right another 10 feet before ascending. Use long runners and run it out, otherwise break it in two as described in most topos. We had to simul so I could reach the next belay ledge.
too bad it follows a waterfall, since the only downside is the polished rock on the upper 2/3 of the route
Climbed with Tom Fralich. Almost every pitch was interesting. I found the crux a bit trickier than expected but enjoyed the whole day.
after a couple years out, this was a nice re-introduction to keep my psyched