East Ridge, IV, 5.7

As in many instances, the travel up the steep glacier looks worse than it really is. Put on your crampons and rope up as you proceed at a left angle gaining steep ground staying left of the larger crevasses, but right of the actual ridge line and its cornices and holes. Angle ever so slowly up to the ridge proper again and eventually you take the ridge and notice ground not too far below you on the left side. As the exposure to the left softens, the exposure to the right steepens. You will cross several glaciers en-route to the summit. Proceed along the ridge at times climbing the left side and at times climbing the right side and even at times straddling the ridge with both feet to avoid holds and crevasses. As you near the summit, you will climb over a huge north facing ice cornice. Right before the summit, there appears a never ending crevice in the most unlikely of spots. Move left of this hole and on to firm ground where three summit registers await (2007).
East Ridge, IV, 5.7, Mount Temple, Banff National Park, July, 2007


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