Approach via Lake Lovely Water. We made an early start and bushwacked our way up from the lake to make the ridge by dawn (spectacluar sunrise over a cloud enshouded Howe Sound).
Once you have made the ridge make your way either along the rock or on the snow to the start of the initial climbing (~2100m point). Once the ridge widens out you will see a notch through a small overhang. Make your way up this (5.7ish for about 15m) and onto the 4th and low 5th class rock beyond. A good place to practice your short roping technique.
To decend contiue along wot the west and downclimb your way towards the Serratus / Alpha col. From there continue west under Ionia avoiding the steep areas and make your way to Lambda Lake. From there it is a short distance to Lake Lovely Water and the cabin. From the cabin to the cabin should take between 8 - 10 hours up and down. Remember to save something for the descent back to the Squamish River...
For us we spent one afternoon going up to Lake Lovely Water. We then spent the night and the next day we climbed the mountain and all the way down to the car the next day.
Rock shoes are helpful but not manditory. A small rack with a set of nuts, a few friends and about 1/2 dozen slings will suffice. Depending on when you go an ice axe might be necessary (depending on how much snow is around), especialy for the desent.
We did not bring a tent with us and instead used bivy sack and slept on the helecopter pad at the lake (look up!). We went light the next day and climbed with small day packs. I used approach shoes for the majority of the climb but did drag some platic boots up with me (did not really need them when we were there but I put them on for the snow sections anyway).
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