East Ridge

Page Type
Wyoming, United States, North America
Route Type:
Snow/Glacier, Technical Rock
Time Required:
Most of a day
II, 5.6

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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East Ridge
Created On: Sep 27, 2003
Last Edited On: Sep 28, 2003


Start in Lupine Meadows and head to Ampitheater Lake. Cross the saddle and the rocky moraine to get to the Teton Glacier. Camp at Teton Glacier as high camp if possible. This subtracts several hours approach to the Teton Glacier on the day of the climb.

Route Description

From the Teton glacier the Koven Couloir leads to the East Prong Col (between the East Prong and Mount Owen) and is easily seen.

Climb a thrid of the way up the Koven Couloir to a broad talus and scree bench extending across the southeast flank of the mountain below the East Prong. Climb or kick steps up the bench to the upper section of the Koven couloir. Ascend the upper section of the couloir for roughly 200 feet and gain good rock forming the left edge of the couloir.

Upon reaching the East Prong Col turn abruptly to the west (left). 120 feet of rock must be passed in order to reach the upper snowfield. Several routes can be used to pass this but the standard is to traverse 50ft down (to the north) and enter a large chimney with easy climbing and a large chockstone at the top which can easily be passed on the left or right sides.

Traverse left or right, then up, to gain the East Ridge. Take the East Ridge to the base of the summit knob. The smooth and near vertical face can be climbed by ascending 25 feet of smooth rock with little protection and then by traversing left on easy rock to the summit.

Standard descent is the Koven Couloir.

Essential Gear

Small rack up to 3 inches. 60 meter rope. Crampons and ice axe in early season.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

East Ridge

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