East Ridge

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 27.8724°S / 68.8414°W
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Additional Information Time Required: Expedition
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 4
Additional Information Difficulty: Walk-up/PD
Sign the Climber's Log


A full description on how to reach the peak here.

There is an obvious valley leading to the peak from the east. When you have the peak in sight, take aim at the glaciers on the slopes of the big "pile-of-sand-peak" on your right (north).
There are some sandy sections in low parts of the valley, from where you can't see the peak, but navigate with the help of the slopes on your right. When you have gained about a hundred vertical meters, you're at the foothills of PSP. Avoid goind too much to the left/south as the slopes here get very steep further on. The going is a bit taxing for the next km as it's a constant up and down into glacier melt-off channels. Sometimes these are quite deep and waterfilled.
When you have passed this area, you're basically at the foot of the mountain.

Route Description

The East Ridge route on...The route. Last part not visible.

The wide east ridge gives you plenty of alternatives in the beginning. You can walk up wherever you feel like and your only concern is the quite annoying scree. It's better to stay on the right/north side as there were some minor rock falls more to the south when I was there.

At roughly 5800m there are some rocky sections, which easily can be avoided to start with. Further up the hill there are more rocks and cliffs and you can leave your walking sticks here as you want need them further up. The summit ridge is a bit precarious in places and it's better to stay below on the northern side. At times you can walk and climb on the highest point of it, at other it would be quite suicidal to when think about it. Use your judgement and have the very sudden strong gusts of wind in mind.
This is a place where you can be blown off the peak, in the true sense of the word.
There are two rocks on the ridge which are of almost equal height, but I think the second of them is the highest point. It doesn't matter much as they are close to each other. There are no cairn of other signs on the peak which marks the summit.

Essential Gear

No technical gear needed for climbers. A hiker may want to rope up on sections on the summit ridge as there are huge drops and narrow ledges to put your feet on. Warm clothing is a must as this peak is on the middle of a very wind swept plain. Walking sticks are of great help on the approach.



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