Up the South Slopes route with JS. El Diente is still holding snow late. Microspiked and ice axed up a few snowfields to the gray gully. Last north side stretch was inundated with snow but Jesse made quick work finding a ridge direct route to avoid it. Snow won't be out for weeks just under the summit.
Went up the south slopes with B and A, and it was a blast. Good deal of snow, and we had to use ice axe and microspikes to get to the gray gulley. Sticking to the ridge route to avoid snow at the top was fun. Glissading down the snowfields was great, and it was a good time to practice self arresting, especially in areas with low(er) risk. Beautiful trail to the basin, but there were a ton of mosquitos. Bring
With Marshall. Outstanding timing on this one, due to our avoidance of rain/graupel while on the traverse. Super fun, interesting, and lots of exposure that grows as you move towards Mount Wilson. I thought the final 200 yards had the thinnest ridge and most exposure, but the holds are all there. Descending the standard MW route is talus city for days.
Climbing this peak is a spectacular way to see the Uncompagre-San Juan range. The 2WD Kilpacker TH to summit is 6.3-miles and took 4.5-hrs to ascend. 1/2 of trail is meandering in lush green vegetation, the other 1/2 is well cairned talus fields. Gulley ascent below organ pipe rocks was loose rock & collapsed cairns until on the solid tooth. Combined with a traverse, the additional 2-hr, 1-mile section over to Mt Wilson has similar exposure around 3 relatively small size gendarmes and a narrow knife edge. Leather gloves & comfy shoes worked well with a little rain in mid-August. A 7-mile decent and/or 4 hours back to Kilpacker parking lot. Gotta DIY!
Solo. Cut across the north face starting at the bottom of the snow in the couloir- worked fairly well. Took the traverse over to Mount Wilson afterwards.
Met Tony, Susan, and Bob. Wonderful time with these choice people. With Michael T.
Solo El Diente - Wilson traverse from Kilpacker
#1 09-22-18 W/ Lana. Did this the day after Mt. Wilson, both from a nifty camping spot at about 10,550' in tall pines. We enjoyed this ascent more than the Mt. Wilson experience of one day earlier. The climbing is on solid rock most of the time above 13,500'. The summit block is one of the smallest summits of the 46 14ers I've had the pleasure of standing atop. And thanks to Tony, Susan and Robert for their excellent company and helpful spotting.
Solo from Kilpacker. Fun route!
This helluva basin provided me with one of the most stressful, mentally challenging days of the summer. Didn't expect the slopes to retain this much snow so with running shoes on I traversed the ridge all the way around and ended up on El Diente at sunset and "suicide climbed" down its North Slopes and safely made my way back to the Rock of Ages saddle and back to the car.
North Buttress route.
Combined with Wilson. Complicated descent.
Due to some snow and ice on the ridge we decided to descent from Mt, Wilson into basin and start climbing El Diente from there. We were following well recognize trail almost to the top. I found ElDiente way easier than i expected. Great views from the top, amazing day in the mountains.
Lots of scrambling fun, great camping near trailhead. Ran out of time for traverse to Mt. Wilson. Climbed with MoapaPk (Harlan) and two others.
With Kat and Dave
Holy smokes, Kilpacker Basin is amazingly beautiful!!! Just incredible!!! We had nice snow to climb, enjoyable scrambling, incredible scenery! Loved this mountains. Got hammered by hail on the outhike, though. With Jaimee & Grant and Mike. What a day!
North buttress and traverse over to Mt Wilson
Enjoyed a fantastic early morning climb of El Diente from Kilpacker Basin - from what I heard from other climbers, the south route is a ton better than the standard North gully. Went on to traverse to Mt. Wilson.
Fun traverse from El Diente to Mt Wilson from Navajo Basin.
Myself and partner. Backpack loop from Cross Mountain TH- Kilpacker basin- El Diente-Navajo Basin- Rock of Ages Saddle- Lizzard Head- back to Cross Mountain TH. Very sketchy descent on El Diente North couloir, triggered one significant and humbling snow/rockslide, hugged the East flank. Scary descent with heavy packs. Descending N. Couloir late in the summer not recommended. Perhaps the Wilson traverse and down has more stable rock.
Otherwise beautiful trip.