El Diente Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 93

BKiser90 - Jul 20, 2023 4:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2023

South Slopin through the Snow  Sucess!

Up the South Slopes route with JS. El Diente is still holding snow late. Microspiked and ice axed up a few snowfields to the gray gully. Last north side stretch was inundated with snow but Jesse made quick work finding a ridge direct route to avoid it. Snow won't be out for weeks just under the summit.


JesseSumrak - Jul 18, 2023 7:49 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2023

El Diente South Slopes  Sucess!

Went up the south slopes with B and A, and it was a blast. Good deal of snow, and we had to use ice axe and microspikes to get to the gray gulley. Sticking to the ridge route to avoid snow at the top was fun. Glissading down the snowfields was great, and it was a good time to practice self arresting, especially in areas with low(er) risk. Beautiful trail to the basin, but there were a ton of mosquitos. Bring
Bug spray.


BradBartick - Jul 23, 2022 5:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2022

The Tooth and Mount Wilson traverse   Sucess!

With Marshall. Outstanding timing on this one, due to our avoidance of rain/graupel while on the traverse. Super fun, interesting, and lots of exposure that grows as you move towards Mount Wilson. I thought the final 200 yards had the thinnest ridge and most exposure, but the holds are all there. Descending the standard MW route is talus city for days.


ericd - Aug 20, 2021 12:02 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2021

an DIY 14er!

Climbing this peak is a spectacular way to see the Uncompagre-San Juan range. The 2WD Kilpacker TH to summit is 6.3-miles and took 4.5-hrs to ascend. 1/2 of trail is meandering in lush green vegetation, the other 1/2 is well cairned talus fields. Gulley ascent below organ pipe rocks was loose rock & collapsed cairns until on the solid tooth. Combined with a traverse, the additional 2-hr, 1-mile section over to Mt Wilson has similar exposure around 3 relatively small size gendarmes and a narrow knife edge. Leather gloves & comfy shoes worked well with a little rain in mid-August. A 7-mile decent and/or 4 hours back to Kilpacker parking lot. Gotta DIY!

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - Sep 24, 2019 6:00 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2019

North side using ROA approach, non standard route  Sucess!

Solo. Cut across the north face starting at the bottom of the snow in the couloir- worked fairly well. Took the traverse over to Mount Wilson afterwards.


yadahzoemtn - Feb 2, 2019 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2018

Loved this one  Sucess!

Met Tony, Susan, and Bob. Wonderful time with these choice people. With Michael T.


eli.boardman - Dec 27, 2018 11:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2018

Saw sunrise from near the summit  Sucess!

Solo El Diente - Wilson traverse from Kilpacker


Moogie737 - Sep 23, 2018 10:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2018

South Slopes from Kilpacker Basin  Sucess!

#1 09-22-18 W/ Lana. Did this the day after Mt. Wilson, both from a nifty camping spot at about 10,550' in tall pines. We enjoyed this ascent more than the Mt. Wilson experience of one day earlier. The climbing is on solid rock most of the time above 13,500'. The summit block is one of the smallest summits of the 46 14ers I've had the pleasure of standing atop. And thanks to Tony, Susan and Robert for their excellent company and helpful spotting.


Onager - Sep 8, 2018 10:22 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2018

Good fun  Sucess!

Solo from Kilpacker. Fun route!


Wheelbarrow - Feb 5, 2018 11:43 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2017

#23  Sucess!

This helluva basin provided me with one of the most stressful, mentally challenging days of the summer. Didn't expect the slopes to retain this much snow so with running shoes on I traversed the ridge all the way around and ended up on El Diente at sunset and "suicide climbed" down its North Slopes and safely made my way back to the Rock of Ages saddle and back to the car.


skorpeo - Dec 13, 2016 11:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2014

Great Day  Sucess!

North Buttress route.

utclimber - Oct 16, 2016 5:11 pm

El Diente  Sucess!

Combined with Wilson. Complicated descent.

Senad Rizvanovic

Senad Rizvanovic - Sep 7, 2015 7:13 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2015

''Low'' traverse  Sucess!

Due to some snow and ice on the ridge we decided to descent from Mt, Wilson into basin and start climbing El Diente from there. We were following well recognize trail almost to the top. I found ElDiente way easier than i expected. Great views from the top, amazing day in the mountains.


MissH - Aug 3, 2015 11:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2015

Via Kilpacker Approach  Sucess!

Lots of scrambling fun, great camping near trailhead. Ran out of time for traverse to Mt. Wilson. Climbed with MoapaPk (Harlan) and two others.


astroclimber - Aug 17, 2014 6:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2014

Another Beautiful Day  Sucess!

With Kat and Dave

Sarah Simon

Sarah Simon - Jul 5, 2014 9:31 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014

Kilpacker  Sucess!

Holy smokes, Kilpacker Basin is amazingly beautiful!!! Just incredible!!! We had nice snow to climb, enjoyable scrambling, incredible scenery! Loved this mountains. Got hammered by hail on the outhike, though. With Jaimee & Grant and Mike. What a day!


MadGrad96 - Nov 1, 2013 10:34 pm

Traverse  Sucess!

North buttress and traverse over to Mt Wilson


DanielL - Oct 9, 2013 12:59 am Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2013

South face from Kilpacker  Sucess!

Enjoyed a fantastic early morning climb of El Diente from Kilpacker Basin - from what I heard from other climbers, the south route is a ton better than the standard North gully. Went on to traverse to Mt. Wilson.


rockymountaindiva - Jul 26, 2013 3:36 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012

El Diente-Mt Wilson  Sucess!

Fun traverse from El Diente to Mt Wilson from Navajo Basin.


earth1 - Jul 15, 2013 4:42 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013

South ascent/North descent  Sucess!

Myself and partner. Backpack loop from Cross Mountain TH- Kilpacker basin- El Diente-Navajo Basin- Rock of Ages Saddle- Lizzard Head- back to Cross Mountain TH. Very sketchy descent on El Diente North couloir, triggered one significant and humbling snow/rockslide, hugged the East flank. Scary descent with heavy packs. Descending N. Couloir late in the summer not recommended. Perhaps the Wilson traverse and down has more stable rock.

Otherwise beautiful trip.

Viewing: 1-20 of 93
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