El Diente Climber's Log

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HokieJim - Aug 16, 2007 2:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007

Kilpacker...  Sucess!

is the way to go! While still steep and loose it was way better than I anticipated after hearing horror stories from climber's on the North Slopes. Forget Navajo, go with Kilpacker


ktiffany22 - Aug 13, 2007 10:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007

From Kilpacker Basin  Sucess!

I have two 14er finisher friends who said they CRIED on only one 14er... and this one was it. I had also read some nasty trip reports about it. SO, needless to say, I was NERVOUS about this one (I almost backed out). HOWEVER, I have GOOD news- I LOVED it! We climbed this one from Kilpacker basin... not near as loose as I hear the Navajo basin trail is! After some very fun climbing, we had the summit to ourselves (for a bit), then began the long descent back to our jeep at the trailhead, and the near 7 hour drive back to the Springs!

Mike Mc

Mike Mc - Jul 29, 2007 6:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2007

N. Slopes  Sucess!

Soloed this very early in the morning, so the little remaining snow was a bit crusty. Very rotten at the top of the couloir...be very careful if their are climbers below you!


jhansen007 - Jul 24, 2007 12:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007

North slopes from Navajo Lake  Sucess!

Climbed the North Slopes from high camp at Navajo Lake. Not really enough snow to make for a fun snow climb. Leave the crampons at home for this route this time of year. The rock was very rotten and loose, do not trust anything you step on or pull on here. Storms came in around 2 or so in the afternoon like clockwork the 4 days we spent in the basin. Mornings were glorious. Afternoons and evenings were full of rain rain rain...


ahaass - Jul 23, 2007 10:27 pm

ahaass  Sucess!

Long dayhike in a beautiful vally. Lots of loose rock everywhere!

Scott Rogers

Scott Rogers - Jul 11, 2007 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2007

Great snow climb  Sucess!

Very fun snow climb up to the top, and an incredible traverse to Mt. Wilson


Flex - Jan 21, 2007 10:33 pm

Traverse from Mt Wilson Jul/04  Sucess!

A short summit visit with static crackling in the air. I risked standing up for a moment to snap a photo, but that was too scary!


weeds19 - Jan 18, 2007 4:29 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2001

A long, solo day  Sucess!

I didn't really know how long the Wilson - El Diente ridge would take and I ended up hiking the last hour to my tent after the sun was well below the horizon. This was a great route and I enjoyed every minute of the climbing.


shknbke - Sep 15, 2006 6:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2006

from Navajo Lake  Sucess!

Took over 5 hrs one way from Navajo Lake with an afternoon start as the weather broke temporarily. Took north slopes route which is the loosest, most dangerous rock I have been on. I would highly recommend NOT descending this route!

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Aug 21, 2006 4:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006

West Ridge via Navajo Lake (ascent), Traverse to Mount Wilson  Sucess!

12 hours roundtrip from Navajo Lake TH. Trip Report


CODave - Aug 12, 2006 5:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2006

North Slopes  Sucess!

Started w/ El Diente from Navajo Basin, traversed to Mt. Wilson, then traversed in talus below Gladstone up to Gladstone-Wilson Peak saddle and then on to Wilson Peak. Descended and left camp. 15 hr day camp to TH


seth@LOKI - Jul 26, 2006 7:16 pm

2x  Sucess!

2x and counting


shanahan96 - Jul 1, 2006 12:25 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2006

south buttress  Sucess!

soloed the south buttress from kilpacker basin. it's a class 5.0-5.2 route going through some questionable rock. being early in the season with no one for miles, just throw the bad rock aside and keep going. a scary yet exhilirating route! do this one.


Mountain Jim

Mountain Jim - Mar 20, 2006 2:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 1969

North Slope.  Sucess!

Inexperienced climbers might want a rope in a couple of places just below the summit ... mostly for the exposure.


markhyams - Mar 3, 2006 12:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 1999

North Face  Sucess!

Snow was mostly melted out, with it being a steep dirt climb, with a few patches of ice. I came in from Silver Pick basin.


LS - Dec 26, 2005 4:50 pm

Route Climbed: north slopes Date Climbed: 8-sep-2005  Sucess!

See the trip-report here: http://distantpeak.com/web/mountains/n-america/mount_wilson


km_donovan - Sep 16, 2005 10:48 am

Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: September 6, 2005  Sucess!

Surprised with how many wild flowers there were and how lush the grass was. It was great to be there after Labor Day since there was only 1 other person on the mountain that day .


skideep1 - Jul 22, 2005 4:36 am

Route Climbed: Kilpacker Creek South Slopes Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  Sucess!

Started early. Solo ascent. Off Mtn by 9:30am


doumall - Jul 13, 2005 1:55 pm

Route Climbed: Traverse from Mt. Wilson Date Climbed: 7-10-05  Sucess!

Summited with ColoradoScott. Traverse was solid and fun, took 3 hours. The descent off El Diente into Navajo Basin is loose and steep. Take this mountain seriously!


ColoradoScott - Jul 12, 2005 1:03 pm

Route Climbed: East Ridge traverse from Mt. Wilson Date Climbed: July 10, 2005  Sucess!

The ridge traverse IS a classic, but not as difficult as I imagined. The downclimbs and scrambles are exiting and the exposure along parts of the ridge are exhilarating (or terrifying to some, probably)!!! The traverse took three hours. On the descent, We scrambled down rocks to reach the main snow couloir and found the top of the snow to be thin (18" over rock) and I took a nasty fall, despite my crampons and axe. After immediately attemping self-arrest, which only slowed my progress on the 55 degree slope, due to the rotten snow conditions, I flipped onto my back when my crampons caught a rock hidding under the shallow snow. Immediately I returned into the arrest positon, finally coming to a stop after a 100 foot slide (and only ten feet above a ten foot drop onto rocks. Fortunately, my quick reactions and equipment prevented any injuries other than scraped knuckles and some soreness.

My partner carefully downclimbed this section w/o incident, although he was shaken to watch my accident. Because of the steepness and soft snow, we downclimbed rock ribs until the slope angle eased back to about 35-40 degrees, where we tested the snow, and began glissading to the bottom, carefully avoiding and rock outcrops below. I finally hobbled into camp 13 hours after our day began.

The moral of the story is: 1)wear a helmet (like I did), 2) have an axe and crampons and know how to used them (it could save your life), 3) climb these with partners, and 4) do not take them lightly...they are difficult climbs with dangerous potential, even if the weather is perfect.

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