Eliot Glacier/Sunshine Route Climber's Log

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AndrewDLB - May 5, 2020 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2020

A long but awesome day!   Sucess!

When climbing before the road to cloud cap opens, this is a LONG day. About 8000 ft and 11 miles (descending down south side) The day we did it, we descended all the way to Government Camp (15 miles total) which took about 15 hrs. The North side is beautiful and a nice change. The route was relatively easy from a technical perspective. Glacier was nice and filled in when we went. Watch the video for the full experience!



skirtratt - Apr 12, 2018 10:53 am Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2017

Good alternative to the regular route.

This was such a great route to get away from the crowds, nobody was on this side of the mountain... you can read my trip report here:


OJ Loenneker

OJ Loenneker - Jul 23, 2008 2:52 am Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2008

Turns on snowdome..  Sucess!

Climbed up to top of snowdome with the intent to burn some turns down. There was quite a few people up there, most likely because cloud cap road just opened up for the season.
The snow, on the other hand sucked for skiing/snowboarding that day. The snow, while soft, was beginning to suncup and runnel out making it a rough ride.

Had to catch my partner in a crevasse fall on the lower Elliot. Luckily he only went in waist deep... (I told you it was a good idea to rope up!!)

Nice day, great weather, lousy snow.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Jan 30, 2007 9:07 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2005

Second time works  Sucess!

dkantola and I started out at 11:43 pm from the Tilly Jane Trailhead. Rain first, then snow, then it cleared. However, it was incredibly windy the whole way. I've been wanting to complete this one after failing in 2001 as part of a TMG course due to hot weather and slushy conditions. Did not think I would make it heading up to the top of Snowdome, I was out of it. Some electrolyte replacement did the trick and we went left of the bergschrund. A large rock dislodged above David while he was crossing but the fall line took it down the Eliot below. David fell hipdeep into a small hidden crevasse on the Eliot but was able to pull himself out easily.

Steep soft snow above the berg at about 50 degrees, David placed about 15 or so pickets on running belays. Was nice to get to Cathedral Ridge and cruise to the summit. We were really slow on the route (my fault) but luckily it was a cold day so the Hogsback descent at 2 pm did not encounter any rockfall. Nice glissade from Crater Rock to almost Silcox Hut. Something like 14 hours up and 3 down. That was one looooooooooong day with 7300 feet of elevation gain.

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