Epinephrine

Beginning the lead of pitch four of Epinephrine. Slick but relatively easy chimney with a great handcrack at the back (you can actually climb this lower section as a crack if you prefer). The second from the party ahead of us is beginning the crux section of the pitch where the chimney narrows down and the grovelling begins... (May 22, 2005).

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jtschanz

jtschanz - May 24, 2005 12:51 pm - Voted 10/10

Nice chimney

Cool shots Radek. Looks like you and Shirley are ticking off the ultra-classics!!

rpc

rpc - May 24, 2005 1:18 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Nice chimney

Thanks Jim.

But no ticking off Epi. on this trip unfortunately! Mix of reasons but mostly due to attempting this during a heat wave that had hit Vegas and peaked on the day we were trying this. Went thru. 75% of our water atop pitch 4 (out of ~15 pitches). Bailed.

Also, next time we'll do the approach in our rock shoes. Hauling my size 16 approach shoes thru. the chimneys is a b*tch!!

jtschanz

jtschanz - May 24, 2005 1:38 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Nice chimney

Too bad - but I'm sure you'll be back. I was reading the page on Epi and it says that the *record* ascent time (roped) is something like 5.5 hours. That gives me some idea how long this climb is!



Approach in rock shoes? Ouch!



Yes, it was very hot in S. Utah this weekend, too. I can't imagine being out there on the rock, under that desert sun, with no relief. And carrying enough water for a 12 hour climb must be next to impossible under those conditions.

rpc

rpc - May 24, 2005 4:57 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Nice chimney

Jim,

It's a long one...apparently 11 pitches of "hard" climbing and then 4 or 5 more of low 4th-low 5th class. Substantial day for mere mortals like us :)

Think approaching in rock shoes (comfy ones!!) would be worth it - less sh.. hanging in the backpack or on the harness. Approach is only 45 minutes; descent is much longer from what I've read though.



So about S. Utah trip....what did you do? And where exactly did you go - Moab? Photos? :)

later Jim.

radek

jtschanz

jtschanz - May 24, 2005 5:24 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Nice chimney

This was a hiking/backpacking trip, so no climbing :) Still, we explored an awesome canyon in Grand Staircase, Escalante - Coyote Gulch. It's very popular, but a cool backpack or long dayhike. I'd love to go explore some of the more technical slot canyons. Did a little dayhiking at Bryce, too, before heading back to SLC. My next Utah destination is definitely Moab, Canyonlands, and Arches, though!

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