Overview
Euro Trash is a heavily bolted face route at the base of Mariuolumne Dome. The route is generally considered an alternate approach to Hobbit Book and other routes on the upper face, and is of sufficient quality to be a destination itself. It offers solid and extremely well protected 5.8 face climbing over four pitches, with easy aid (A0) over an otherwise 5.10c crux move on the 4th pitch.
Approach
From the parking area for Mariuolumne Dome (see
Hobbit Book page), follow the approach trail towards Drug Dome. As the impressive face of Drug Dome comes into view, follow a use trail through forest towards the right, trending up and right along the base of Mariuolumne Dome. The start of Euro Trash is uphill and to the right of a large, black water streak, where the angle of the slabs eases off and the rock color becomes more whitish. Look for a few obvious bolts on low angle slabs, marking the start of the route.
Route Description
Hiking past the first few bolts to establish belay enables one to climb past the first two-bolt anchor and link pitches 1-2. Pitch 3 continues to follow tightly spaced bolts to another two-bolt anchor. Pitch 4 climbs up past two bolts, followed by a short runout that can be protected with gear. The crux appears at the 3rd and 4th bolts. One can clip the 3rd bolt and grab a cheater sling on the 4th bolt to aid past the crux bulge (not that
you would ever do that...). After clipping a 5th and final bolt, traverse up and right, climb over a vertical bulge (5.8), and then traverse back up and left to another two-bolt anchor at the Hobbit Book approach ledges.
Descent
From the top of Euro Trash, climb up and right over exposed 4th class (you may wish to stay roped here) to the huge ledge above, and continue to Hobbit Book or other routes on the upper face. Otherwise, to descend, either rappel the route or descend the traditional Hobbit Book approach route to the left.
Essential Gear
Quickdraws for first 3 pitches. Pitch 4 has fewer bolts but offers good protection from about 0.5" to 2". If continuing the climb to Hobbit Book, you will be carrying more than enough pro for this pitch.
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