This 5 pitch line combines 3 good routes to provide a continuous line of ascent from the base of Castle to the summit. It offers good climbing, and is recommended. Another option would be to climb the classic Canary as pitches 4 & 5.
See the approach for lower Castle Rock on the main page. Look for the obvious chimney system towards the south side of the wall with the tree growing in it.
Pitch #1 - The Fault
- Start up the chimney system utilizing wide protection deep in the crack. Sling the tree and continue working your way up the enjoyable wide fissure with occasional edges and a moderate angle. Climbing is enjoyable and sustained. After 90 feet you will find a bush at Stoners Ledge below the steepening wall. Belay here. 5.6
Pitch #2 - Catapult
- Start this pitch in the wide crack which moves up to a detached block in a steep corner. From the base of the block, power directly up the vertical to slightly overhanging left edge using strenuous liebacking, fist jamming, and hand jamming. This section is very sustained with no edges for gear placement rest. Once on top of the block move up towards the obvious clean corner. From here power up the corner using handjambs, and strenuous liebacking. This section is also sustained but features a 3 inch wide ledge to place gear and rest on halfway up. Finish the corner then mantle up unto the ledge with good gear for an anchor. AWESOME PITCH! - 5.8 - 125 feet
- Scramble up the broken terrain directly towards Jello Tower on easy terrain, then belay froma boulder on Loggers Ledge. 140 feet - low 5th class
Pitch #4 - Midway
- From the south edge of Jello Tower climb the chimney using stemming, face holds, and opposition to gain the top of Jello Tower in a fun pitch. Most parties belay here. I recommend continuing so the climb can be finished in one pitch. Find some small gear on the main face, then perform the commiting and exposed step accross move to the south reaching for unseen holds. Move accross under the roof and belay at the cracks below the chimney. 80 feet - 5.6
- Make your way up the short chimney and slab then follow a crack system or the face with good pro to the top. 155 feet - 5.3 to 5.5
- Walk off the east side of the tower following the trail around the south side back to Loggers Ledge. Follow the trail back to the parking lot.
50 or 60 meter rope.
Standard Rack to 4"
Atleast 2 48" slings (for the top of Midway pitch #1).
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.