Fishhook Arete

Shirley hiking down following our climb of Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell. Conditions were pretty chilly throughout the day - hence the full on arctic attire. First ~2 pitches of the route are visible. Pitch one as drawn is how we got onto the arete. This is the way Supertopo recommends it. Pitch is about 90 feet long and pretty sustained - also has some smallish pro on lower half and a touch of sh!tty rock (....though compared to Oregon stuff, I can't really complain). First ~2.5 pitches of Mithral Dihedral (III 5.9) are also visible on the left side (June 19, 2005).


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Diggler - Jun 22, 2005 8:59 pm - Voted 10/10

Great series, Radek!

Again I marvel at your & Shirley's sheer drive (pun intended)!!! Looks awesome- would you rate it a .8 or a .9 (seen both suggestions)? I would love to do that climb later in the summer.


rpc - Jun 23, 2005 11:41 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Great series, Radek!

Thanks Dirk!

It's an .8 I think. A few pitches have some .8 terrain but with exception of P1, these sections are brief and separated by low 5th class. P1 (as per Supertopo) is the crux IMHO. Relatively sustained and with some small pro (small stoppers and micro cams) on lower half (and a bit of loose rock on lower 1/2).

Think you'd enjoy this route not so much for its sustained technical climbing but simply due to the setting (I wish you a much better weather than we had though!!!). take care.


poorboy44 - Jun 23, 2005 3:42 pm - Hasn't voted


Is the descent snow free right now? Or do you need boots and an axe?


rpc - Jun 23, 2005 4:12 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Descent

There's a short (30-40) foot section of hard snow/ice to cross about 150 feet below summit on the standard s. face descent. You could probably rig up a rap past it or find another way around it.

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