Forbidden Peak Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 57
Buckaroo

Buckaroo - Oct 17, 2009 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1994

West Ridge Solo  Sucess!

Did the rock to the left of the initial couloir. Met a buddy of mine on the route who was also soloing.

MountaingirlBC

MountaingirlBC - Aug 8, 2009 3:44 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009

Oh Yeah! Life is Good!  Sucess!

Most excellent day out on bomber rock (well, once you top out of the gully anyway!). Simulclimbed the West Ridge in approach shoes. Nothing hard... just spectacular views and super fun climbing. Scary rock fall in the gully made things more interesting than we would have liked. Set up a proper rap station with a rap ring near the top but that still only gets you 2/3 of the way down.

lukic

lukic - Jul 20, 2009 1:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2009

East Ridge Direct  Sucess!

Fun, easy route. Just under 13 hours car to car. The East Ledges were a pretty straight forward descent route.

klwagar

klwagar - Jul 1, 2009 6:21 am Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009

west ridge/east ledges  Sucess!

Beautiful day, lots of marmots! Even one near the summit. Route in perfect conditions.

TheRootster

TheRootster - Jun 23, 2009 12:48 am

Another NOLS summit  Sucess!

That was a good summer...1984. Years later I was in Talkeetna, Alaska, and took a stroll through the cemetery, which has a marker listing all the mountaineers who have bit the big one on the local peaks. Alas. there I saw the name of one of my NOLS instructors from this trip...Tom Walter...who died in an avalanche on Mt Foraker in 1992. Happy Trails, Tom!

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Jun 13, 2009 12:17 am Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2009

West Ridge  Sucess!

Bill Ayers and I climbed this classic route in beautiful clear weather despite a non-ideal forecast. We hiked up to camp in Boston Basin and only felt a few sprinkles. When we woke up, the tent was totally engulfed in cloud, but we set off following the track towards Forbidden. At around 4:30, we broke out of the cloud and watched a fantastic sunrise, with peaks poking through the cloud layer in every direction. We reached the ridge at 6AM and simul-climbed to the summit in about 90 minutes. The descent went quickly and we even managed to score a ride in a dump truck back to the trailhead.

lloyd

lloyd - Sep 6, 2008 11:01 pm

West Ridge  Sucess!

The coulior was in great shape for us, but new snow on the ridge made for slow going. We had the route to ourselves and visibility was nill. We got back down the coulior right before dark with still limited visibility and ended up bivying. Next time I'll bring a gps and wait for clear weather!

joepa

joepa - Aug 8, 2008 7:43 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008

West Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed WR with Kristy. Had to use rock gully to left of snow couloir. Descended east ledges.

kgriggs

kgriggs - Sep 28, 2007 5:31 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007

East Ridge Direct  Sucess!

Climbed it with JoePa read two below this.

DBaker

DBaker - Sep 17, 2007 6:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007

Not so forbidden, now eh?!  Sucess!

North Ridge route- low to mid 5th class rock with some rather steep (and somewhat slushy) snow sections. Took a solid 3 hours of wandering to find our camp again, however- mark it with GPS or somesuch, it all looks the same in the dark.

joepa

joepa - Sep 10, 2007 3:00 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007

East Ridge Direct  Sucess!

Great climb, good exposure. Just under 8 hours from BB to summit. East ledges descent not bad at all. 5 rappels, traverse and downclimb to the gully. About 3.5 hours from summit back to camp. Hurried back to the car in 1.5 hours.

jasonconnell

jasonconnell - Jul 12, 2007 5:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007

West Ridge  Sucess!

Great climb on great rock! Hiked into Boston Basin Friday night, climbed Forbidden Saturday and camped in the Basin again, Sunday Climbed Sahale and descended via Sahale Arm.

Pantilat

Pantilat - Jun 20, 2007 2:22 am

West Ridge and East ledges  Sucess!

West Ridge (2005) and East ledges (2006) in 2.5 hours from car to summit

Casey Bates

Casey Bates - Oct 10, 2006 11:12 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2006

Epic day.

This climb is the single reason I am now motivated to learn how to lead trad; I could not switch leads with my partner and he was beat. We got off route in the gully and could not finish ascent. Witnessed sunrise and sunset from the glacier below the couloir. Huge rock calved off in basin below our rappel.

Outdoorpartner

Outdoorpartner - Oct 5, 2006 5:29 am Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2006

Rained out

Waited around at base camp for a weather window, but it was still too wet. I recommend waiting until at least July to try climbing this mountain.

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Aug 29, 2006 11:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2006

Torment-Forbidden traverse  Sucess!

Did the West Ridge as part of the Torment-Forbidden traverse w/ dug. Stunning views, lots of fun and lots of smoke from the fires in E. Washington.

thundercloud

thundercloud - Aug 16, 2006 4:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006

West Ridge  Sucess!

Climbed with the clucksters, but who is the real climbing chicken? Enjoyed the WR rock a ton! Gully not great either way. First 1.5 miles of approach were a chore, but not bad afterwards. Set up bivy in the woods prior to park boundary, as we couldn't get a Boston Basion permit...permits full, but didn't seem to be that many folks up there. Beware of the viscious attacking marmots.

Aaron Dyer

Aaron Dyer - Aug 15, 2006 3:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006

West Ridge  Sucess!

We also had trouble descending the west ridge snow gully. Could have used 2 ropes or another descent.

cluck

cluck - Aug 14, 2006 10:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006

West Ridge  Sucess!

Snow in the coulior was mostly melted so we opted for the 2nd gully to the left which Becky describes as 4th class down low and grassy 3rd class above. Description was correct but fails to mention that the gulley is loose and offers little protection. In my opinion, this gully was the emotional crux of the route. Climbed the ridge and only met one other party (who was doing the Torment-Forbidden traverse). Downclimbing back to the notch took as long as going up. Raps in the gully were problematic and wasted some time freeing stuck ropes. Nice to have 2 X 60M which got us to the snow. What I've learned from this trip? If you do Forbidden West ridge, go earlier in the season so you can climb snow in the couloir.

Oznid

Oznid - Jul 29, 2006 2:36 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2006

Route Climbed: East Ridge Direct  Sucess!

This route is harder, more exposed than the west ridge. Of course, it's lots of fun. Great views of the Boston Glacier. Watch out for rope drag!

Viewing: 1-20 of 57
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