The supposedly 4th class gully to the left of the coulior is full of a heinous amount of loose rock that many times gives the impression of being solid until you pull on it. Some very large boulders (almost car size) would move if pulled on. I would highly recommend not doing the 4th class gully. It was wet and full of steep vegetation and had very, very few options for protection. That said, we had great weather and the views are amazing. Would like to come back and try the coulior when it is in season as this peak and surroundings are absolutely gorgious. Once out of the gully things were fine, but we had started too late and were not making the fast time we had hoped after being rejected by the coulior and making slow scary progress in the gully. Flying/driving/hiking in the day prior and getting a little lost in the dark after leaving the woods the day before had worn on us and 8 AM is not an alpine start, especially in September.
did not get to the top because of novice exposure experience. Our "guide" wanted to keep moving up over the crux and beyond but myself and another wanted to head down. Also due to our slow pace
Did the rock to the left of the initial couloir. Met a buddy of mine on the route who was also soloing.
Most excellent day out on bomber rock (well, once you top out of the gully anyway!). Simulclimbed the West Ridge in approach shoes. Nothing hard... just spectacular views and super fun climbing. Scary rock fall in the gully made things more interesting than we would have liked. Set up a proper rap station with a rap ring near the top but that still only gets you 2/3 of the way down.
Fun, easy route. Just under 13 hours car to car. The East Ledges were a pretty straight forward descent route.
Beautiful day, lots of marmots! Even one near the summit. Route in perfect conditions.
That was a good summer...1984. Years later I was in Talkeetna, Alaska, and took a stroll through the cemetery, which has a marker listing all the mountaineers who have bit the big one on the local peaks. Alas. there I saw the name of one of my NOLS instructors from this trip...Tom Walter...who died in an avalanche on Mt Foraker in 1992. Happy Trails, Tom!
Bill Ayers and I climbed this classic route in beautiful clear weather despite a non-ideal forecast. We hiked up to camp in Boston Basin and only felt a few sprinkles. When we woke up, the tent was totally engulfed in cloud, but we set off following the track towards Forbidden. At around 4:30, we broke out of the cloud and watched a fantastic sunrise, with peaks poking through the cloud layer in every direction. We reached the ridge at 6AM and simul-climbed to the summit in about 90 minutes. The descent went quickly and we even managed to score a ride in a dump truck back to the trailhead.
The coulior was in great shape for us, but new snow on the ridge made for slow going. We had the route to ourselves and visibility was nill. We got back down the coulior right before dark with still limited visibility and ended up bivying. Next time I'll bring a gps and wait for clear weather!
Climbed WR with Kristy. Had to use rock gully to left of snow couloir. Descended east ledges.
Climbed it with JoePa read two below this.
North Ridge route- low to mid 5th class rock with some rather steep (and somewhat slushy) snow sections. Took a solid 3 hours of wandering to find our camp again, however- mark it with GPS or somesuch, it all looks the same in the dark.
Great climb, good exposure. Just under 8 hours from BB to summit. East ledges descent not bad at all. 5 rappels, traverse and downclimb to the gully. About 3.5 hours from summit back to camp. Hurried back to the car in 1.5 hours.
Great climb on great rock! Hiked into Boston Basin Friday night, climbed Forbidden Saturday and camped in the Basin again, Sunday Climbed Sahale and descended via Sahale Arm.
West Ridge (2005) and East ledges (2006) in 2.5 hours from car to summit
This climb is the single reason I am now motivated to learn how to lead trad; I could not switch leads with my partner and he was beat. We got off route in the gully and could not finish ascent. Witnessed sunrise and sunset from the glacier below the couloir. Huge rock calved off in basin below our rappel.
Waited around at base camp for a weather window, but it was still too wet. I recommend waiting until at least July to try climbing this mountain.
Did the West Ridge as part of the Torment-Forbidden traverse w/ dug. Stunning views, lots of fun and lots of smoke from the fires in E. Washington.
Climbed with the clucksters, but who is the real climbing chicken? Enjoyed the WR rock a ton! Gully not great either way. First 1.5 miles of approach were a chore, but not bad afterwards. Set up bivy in the woods prior to park boundary, as we couldn't get a Boston Basion permit...permits full, but didn't seem to be that many folks up there. Beware of the viscious attacking marmots.
We also had trouble descending the west ridge snow gully. Could have used 2 ropes or another descent.