Started at North Fork Sauk River. Weather was pretty warm and snow was pretty mushy, making the part from White Pass to Glacier Gap long and not real enjoyable. But the wildflowers, bluebird days and a great summit day was amazing. Took our time over several days.
c2c ish as we had 6 hour unplanned bivy due to clouds and low temps - worth a longer trip as there is a lot of terrain to explore and enjoy.
Good Gawd the heat....
The climb coincided with some of the hottest temps ever recorded in the Puget Sound area. The approach, while beautiful, was very humid. From White Pass we were on snow (with rare exceptions) all the way to camp and the reflected heat made it feel a bit like walking in an oven. The climb itself was lovely and straightforward as we followed the standard/Disappointment Peak route. Windy conditions cooled temps down nicely for our summit. The view from the summit is spectacular and allows the climber to take in much of the Cascade Range- well worth the price of admission.
Temps continued to rise and made for a personally exhausting return to the TH where it was 106. Seattle was well over 110 later that day.
As I was not able to connect with my usual climbing partners I opted for a guided climb with Northwest Mountain School. Olivia (owner/guide) and Sam (guide) were delightful company. Olivia is an exceptional climber and guide and I recommend Northwest Mountain School with enthusiasm.
I don't think we took the usual route. I remember climbing over a ridge and hitting the Sitkum Glacier halfway up. We could see other climbers way below us on the glacier.
Climbed the route in 2 days spending the night on the top of the ridge just east of White Mountain and then climbing the peak and descending back to the trailhead on the second day. Would recommend camping as close to the glacier as possible to allow more time for the descent. There were some campsites around here: 48.08259, -121.10787. There were only a few crevasses with just one close to the trail at the end of the rockfall area so we didn't feel the need to rope up.
I loved this climb more than anything. The approach to the mountain was incredible
One of the most beautiful approaches I have encountered with a bit of everything the outdoors has to offer. Pro-tip, don't be in a hurry to leave the river early in the day in July! We took siesta at the river and waited out the heat while others suffered to travel up the ridge in the heat of the day, at least two ended up turning back on their climb because of it.
Late start out of seattle saw us hiking into white pass for the first night well after the sun went down. Next day we got off track by staying too far low when making our way to Suiattle glacier. Third day we got the summit in a beautiful smoke cloud by ourselves and hiked all the way out to the car. A long knee destroying day.
Long day trip from N Fork Sauk trailhead to Summit, and back almost to White Pass. Bivied near Fom Creek Pass and finished hike out the next morning. The fresh snow and fall colors made the trip extremely memorable
Fighting those Marmots for our food!! With Michael and Nick
Rain started hitting as we neared the junction with the PCT ascending from Mackinaw Shelter. It did not stop for 36 hours.
Established camp about 13 miles from North Fork Sauk Trailhead.
Set out amid freezing rain and fog at 6:30 a.m. the next morning. Suffice to say precipitation and visibility did not improve all the way to the summit -- but we did get there. Route-finding and conditions made for a 13-hour summit day.
Sun was out when we awoke the following morning but it was still windy. Warmed and finally dried as we descended.
With Baker Mountain guide Vince and Yadahzoemtn. Camped at White Pass (mosquito convention in full swing) and Glacier Gap (no mosquitoes but a couple of marmots itching for a food bonanza). Left for summit at 3:30 a.m. and were standing on top 4 hours 7 minutes later. The final 300' vertical gain on the approach to the summit was awe-inspiring. We returned to camp, rested a few minutes and then hiked back to a spot near White Pass before hiking out the following day. Talk about warmth! Some individuals were wearing shorts up to the summit.
The route was in good shape. One crevasse will open up along the route in the near future.
Done in 2 days/1 night, camped on the summit. Sunset on the summit was one of the most beautiful things I've ever experienced.
50 hours car to car.
Glacier Peak in May? Who would've thought? We did the standard route, coming around Disappointment Peak on the Cool Glacier. Beautiful (but windy) weather on the summit; I could see the Oso mudslide with binoculars. There were three other people on the upper mountain that day, including Matt Smolinski doing a solo one-day ascent. He was moving fast. We were not.
Figured we'd cram in one more climb before the summer ended, and Glacier Peak seemed like a great way to fill the three day weekend. Started from the Sloan Creek campground, and camped about 2 miles before Glacier Gap (about 1/3 mile after cresting the ridge). Didn't get a view of the peak until near midnight, when the clouds finally cleared up some. Set out on Sunday for the summit at around 8:30; there was a solid cloud deck at around 7000', but we managed to stay mainly out of the clouds except for near the summit. About a foot of fresh snow on the mountain made for some fun navigation; past Glacier Gap we were making fresh tracks the entire way to the summit (in the end we were the only group to summit the entire weekend). Definitely recommend this climb; it has a much different feel than the other Cascade volcanoes
we were able to thread the needle weatherwise with a great group. Definitely a long haul to get in there. Took the standard route which had no technical difficulties but I could imagine getting pretty disoriented around the White Chuck glacier remnants in low visibility.
Took our time over 4 days in very high temperatures (90 degrees or more). There was considerable slushy snow-pack all the way from white pass to just below the summit. The traverse from White pass to up and over the ridge was unstable and steep making for some very nice adventure! (I executed my first, real -life self arrest after losing my footing.) The upper slope (summit pyramid) was quite steep but we managed to top out in beautiful, albeit deteriorating weather.
Such a wild and isolated place...
Great hike along the North Fork Sauk River to White Pass and then on to the base of the White Chuck Glacier where we camped. Awesome weather, albeit a bit smoky, the entire time on the mountain. Summited the next day and enjoyed over an hour on the top. The views were slightly obscured with all of the smoke in the air but still awesome. Camped out again at the base of the White Chuck Glacier before hitting the trail early the next morning. From White Pass on the hike out made the side trip to Indian Head Peak, the other P2K in the area.