The SE Gullies
This description starts from the south bowl under the south face of the Hinde. Approaching this point takes 2-3 days from any direction. The reader is referred to the main mountain page
for details on the long and complex approaches that are possible.
From the tarn in the south bowl, ascend snow and/or scree slopes aiming for the vegetated exit gully at the top right (NE) side of the bowl under the cliffs of the south face proper. Loose rock is very evident at this point and helmets should be worn from this point on, if not before. Only one gully leading to the SE face is practical and is hard to miss. In case you’re in doubt, approximately 25 metres to climber’s left of the correct gully is a steep couloir leading up to the south face that has a huge chockstone wedged in the top. Go up the gully, over the shoulder and onto the southeast face.
Make a rising traverse across the southeast face passing the first gully and aiming for the bottom of the second one. The route may be on snow or scree or both and there are some cairns to follow.
Exit gully from S Face
Climbing the S bowl
Below the SE Gullies
Enter the second gully. Depending on conditions, this may be snow-filled to the top. If so and you’re comfortable on steep snow, take this option. The angle reaches just over 45° at some points. If the gully is only partially snow-filled or if you don’t like steep snow with a big run-out below, a route entirely on rock up to Class 4 may be found on the right side of the gully.
Make your way up using either option aiming for the snow saddle at the top of the gully. This saddle bridges the west and main summits.
Climbing the SE Gullies
SE Gullies from above
Summit Boulder Field
Just before reaching the saddle look to make a traverse to the right. This takes you to the top of another minor gully coming up the SE face. As you reach the top of this feature, turn left and make a rising traverse up the last boulder field to the summit.
Descend by reversing the climbing route. Special attention should be paid to loose rock in the gullies on the way down.
Helmets are a must for the SE Gulllies.
An axe is essential to climb and especially downclimb the gullies on snow and is very useful crossing the snowfields on the lower south and southeast faces.
Crampons are only necessary early in the day or if conditions are otherwise icy.
A rope and rock protection need only be carried for those not confident on 4th Class terrain or to set up a rappel if it becomes necessary.
The approximate line of ascent of the SE Gullies Route on the Golden Hinde. The first, false gully can be seen just to the left of the main gully. The gap in the line at the top of the South Bowl indicates the exit gully onto the lower SE face.
Golden Hinde SE Gullies Route
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