Gordon Variation

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 41.17250°N / 122.3414°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 5
Additional Information Grade: II
Sign the Climber's Log


This route is of comparable difficulty as the Cosmic Wall route. The hardest pitch is pitch #4, which follows the same line as pitch #5 of Cosmic Wall route. It can be climbed in 5 pitches and has a good belay ledge at each pitch.

Getting There

Follow directions on the Cosmic Wall route page, the start of the route is about 10-15 feet to the east of the Cosmic Wall route.

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb up a low angle slab with tiny crystal holds to a small tree under the prominent overhang, near the right side end of the overhang. Set up anchor using the small tree. No pro needed for the entire pitch before the tree, and natural cracks are very scarce here if you want to use pro.
Pitch 2: This is the longest pitch, about 190 feet. Follow a line of weakness in the granite up and right (go right about 15 feet horizontally to find the weakness), with occasional chicken heads and flakes for pro. At the end of the pitch set up anchor behind a large flake where there is a comfortable perch. Sling a horn here for anchor.
Pitch 3: Follow thin flakes straight up for 30 feet, then follow easier terrain within a dry gully. Go up and right for better holds to a tree, then traverse left to a large 3rd class ledge. Set up anchor at the obvious location closest to two parallel chutes on the left.
Pitch 4: This pitch follows pitch 5 of the Cosmic Wall route. Ascend large flakes up and left to traverse into the right side one of the two parallel chutes. Steep climbing with reasonable pro leads to a notch in the ridge. Cross the notch to set up anchor in a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 5: Follow pitch 6 of the Cosmic Wall route.

Essential Gear

Cams up to #2

External Links



Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.