Grandes Jorasses - Routes on the NE

Grandes Jorasses - Routes on the NE

1) "Coulée Douce" (Delmas/Perroux, 1985, D, 60°,400m) .

2) “Little MacIntyre” (MacIntyre/Rhodes/Todd, 1976, TD, IV/4+, 600m).

3) “Le Linceul” - (The Shroud) (Flematti/Desmaison, 1968, TD+, IV/4, 750m to the Hirondelles ridge, 1100 to the Walker) The picture shows all the different starts and variants: 3a is the (harder) left hand start by Graham and Hyslop im 1980. 3b is the classic right hand start, originally climbed by Bernardini and Paragot in a erly attempt (1963). Contrarily to what people may think, Desmaison and Flematti didn't use either of the couloirs, but went what later became the start of the Gousseault route (in order to limit the ice climbing part). Ironically, this is exactly the reverse of what Patrick Berhault did 33 years later - he approached the Gousseault via the Linceuil in order to minimize the mixed/rock part. This goes a long way showing how climbing habits and difficulties change according to the technology available.

3c is the alternative exit to the Hirondelles ridge. 3d - approximate line is the direct exit to the Walker summit by Sachetat and Seguirer. Profit linked 3a and 3d to create the so called "Magic Line"-

4) “Gousseault” (Bertone/Claret/Desmaison, 1973, ED3, VI, A2 or M5, 1200m.). The one shown is the original start, used also by Desmaison in the Linceul first climb.

5) “Rolling Stones” (KutilProchaska/Slechta/Svejda, 1979, 1,100m, ED3, 6b/A3, 80°) The lenght indicated is up to the Walker Pt. summit. but the indipendent line end at the Triangular Snowfield

6) Gabarrou "Direttissima" (Bouvard/Gabarrou, 1986, ED3/4, 6c-7a, A1/A2, 1200m.) Again, the lenght is the total up the Walker summit. However the FA joined the Cassin route at the Red Tower, climbing straight through the Red Chimney, then linking above again with the Cassin.

on Feb 4, 2005 9:35 am
Image ID: 88293


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