We made it under perfect weather conditions in 3 hours from the saddle (Luisenscharte). Great views on Venediger- and Reiseferner-gruppe. Many people there. Surprisingly, no snow on the ridge, even on the normal route and in the saddle between the summit and Klein Glockner.
Very long and interesting but crowded and demanding. The dificulties increase
toward the end. It took to me and my wife Annica 13 hours to finished!
From Lucknerhaus to Erzherzog Johann Hutte with ski, the traverse with crampons (a very hard 1900hm day trip)
Weather was cloudy, partly light snowfall, sun at the top. Thanks to Sigi for the motivation to continue the climb !
We went up from Lucknerhaus directly to Erzherzog Johann Hutte, and the next day to Kleinglockner, but bad weather forced us to return. In the fog and the drifting snow the sound of the house's bell lead us back to the hut. After an hour rest, in the deep snow we struggled down to Lucknerhaus. That was my most tiring climb ever.
In Dec-2000 we made another try but reached only the Studlhutte, and climbed the peak above the Hut.
I hope one day I will summit via Studlgrat, or Pallavicini route.
first technical alpine climb. my dad hired a guide for us and we had a day that shaped my life!! will never forget.
I can recommend this route, except when there are icy conditions. I cannot recommend to enter the ridge early (boring, bad rock), better stay as long as possible on the glacier to the left. As described in the route section. The 'Stuedl' route is not so crowded as the normal route and there are ways to overtake others or let them pass. Which is contrary to the normal route with sometimes chaotic scenes. Some time ago there have been 'Schweineschwaenze' (pig tails) on the ridge you could link the the rope in without biners. Speeds you up a lot and you run simultaniously. But I have heard they have been destroyed ?? If you are a good climber you will need the rope only on some pitches.
A great ski-mountaineering weekend. Best snow conditions from the top down to the Lucknerhaus parking lot. On Saturday coming from Munich we climbed up to Stuedlhut for the night. The next day via the Koednitzkees directly to the Glocknerleitl and further up to the rock climbing passage. From there without skis to the summit. Descent on the same route.
Even at this time of the year you have to share this peak with a lot of other co-summitters.
already some snow on the shadow side of the ridge, but good conditions with great weather. My friend and I we belayed almost every part of the climb, so it took us the whole day untill we came back to the Stuedl hut. As the Hohe Tauern and especially Grossglockner are the mountains I like most, this was a great experience for me. Pure ice at the descent at the Glocknerleitl.
got bad weather with horrible thunderstorm and snow...had one bivouac at the summit
Originally, we planned to climb the Stüdl ridge. Because of unstable weather, we changed plans and did the normal route with an interesting variation. From Stüdl Hut to Ködnitzkees. From the Ködnitzkees we climbed via a steep snow slope directly to the Glocknerleitl (thereby circumventing the Erzherzog-Johann-Hut on the Adlersruhe).
My second top .
Very good wether, easy climb via Stüddlehütte.