Hörnligrat Additions and Corrections

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Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Jan 22, 2012 7:27 pm - Hasn't voted

picture topo

The picture topo link at the bottom is not working (or at least didn't for me).

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Jan 22, 2012 10:56 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: picture topo

The site was taken down - correction made.

Thanks for the heads up.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Jan 23, 2012 2:33 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: picture topo

No problem. Hoping to do that route within the next few years. Like your page on it a lot.

I did find a pretty cool site here if you are interested:

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Jan 23, 2012 5:04 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: picture topo

A very nice page - I added it to the route page to replace the one that was taken down.

I see two more places of fixed ropes than when I did the route - when I was there, there were only ropes on the initial pitch and the stretch above the shoulder.

Thanks much.


philippematter68 - Sep 10, 2013 7:04 am - Hasn't voted

Re: picture topo

Hello, sorry for asking again... the link to the picture topo is broken; or more specifically it seems that the file at bergsteigen.at has been deleted.
Could you maybe send it to me somehow? That would be really great.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Sep 11, 2013 7:49 am - Hasn't voted

Re: picture topo

Looks like it was deleted - I don't have a copy. I have removed the link.

Sorry for the late response - I have just returned from a two week trip to Iceland.


bogdivoda - Jul 21, 2016 9:03 am - Hasn't voted


As prices at Hornlihutte are prohibitive, do you know if there are places in the area where we can camp? In the hutte site they are mentioning that the camping and bivouacking is forbidden.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Jul 22, 2016 9:12 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Camping

I doubt that there is any legal camping anywhere near the hut. I suggest that you contact the Zermatt tourist bureau. Also, you might post this question to the Europe board in the forums.


chrisjarvis - Nov 9, 2016 1:25 pm - Hasn't voted

Difficulty of Route Comparison

Hello, can someone, especially if you have climbed both, tell me how the normal route(s) here compare to the normal routes on the Grand Teton (ex. Upper Exum, Owen Spalding) in the US? ...and also maybe a comparison as well to the normal or easiest routes up the Drus near Chamonix? All I can find is AD, AD-, and D but I have no idea how that would compare to YDS. I've looked at several comparison charts, but I need a good take from someone who knows.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Nov 11, 2016 11:05 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Difficulty of Route Comparison

In dry conditions, the technical climbing on the Hörnligrat is much easier than on the Upper Exum - two pitches of III- which is barely 5th class. However the climb is much longer and very sustained at 3rd and 4th class - most of it of the "if you fall you die" variety. On the upper part of the peak you will almost certainly find mixed snow and rock - crampons needed.

The Hörnigrat is considered by most to be the most difficult "normal" route on any of the 4,000 m peaks in the Alps.

Here is a good page for YDS / UIAA comparisons - with written descriptions of many grades.



chrisjarvis - Nov 14, 2016 6:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Difficulty of Route Comparison

Thanks so much!


Moni - Nov 23, 2016 8:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Difficulty of Route Comparison

If it is helpful, Fred and I took almost 13 hours round trip on this route and we had top notch conditions. We do not know how conditions have changed since the landslide that took place on the lower Hörnligrat.

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