Excellent route photos collection: there are just the key passages and well showed.
As well, you attribute to the route a difficulty more real nowadays, with all that aids there, than the IV or even IV+ that we can read in many places (Could that be so climbing by the pure rock?)
Cheers!
A standard 50 M rope will do just fine. Practice climbing in Glacier and the Missions unroped. You need to be able to climb exposed crap for rock with little pro. We did not rope up until just below the Solvay hut. Most fixed pro are above the hut and are big burly rods with an eye hook. I don't recall us taking much of anything else along - some slings and biners. If climbing unguided, expect at least 13 hours round trip.
dadndave - Feb 22, 2006 1:14 am - Voted 10/10
Very InformativeGreat route page, Fred. Gives a real sense of what to expect.
Luiso - Dec 20, 2008 6:18 am - Voted 10/10
Good workExcellent route photos collection: there are just the key passages and well showed.
As well, you attribute to the route a difficulty more real nowadays, with all that aids there, than the IV or even IV+ that we can read in many places (Could that be so climbing by the pure rock?)
Cheers!
Charles - Dec 22, 2008 6:07 am - Voted 10/10
Well writtenThanks Fred, good page!
Regards
Charles
granitepeaker - Mar 3, 2010 12:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Route Protectionas far as fixed protection on the route how many bolts and pitons are there?
what type of active protection should a two man team have?
hexes? cams? ice srews? etc??
Also how long of a rope do you recommend?
Moni - Mar 3, 2010 9:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Route ProtectionA standard 50 M rope will do just fine. Practice climbing in Glacier and the Missions unroped. You need to be able to climb exposed crap for rock with little pro. We did not rope up until just below the Solvay hut. Most fixed pro are above the hut and are big burly rods with an eye hook. I don't recall us taking much of anything else along - some slings and biners. If climbing unguided, expect at least 13 hours round trip.
granitepeaker - Jun 24, 2010 6:05 pm - Hasn't voted
rope diameter?is an 8.1mm rope to thin for the hornli route?
Fred Spicker - Jun 25, 2010 9:08 am - Hasn't voted
Re: rope diameter?Not in my opinion.