I recently summited the route via the direct start on Labor Day. I forgot my topo and route description in the car like a dummy! Route finding was not bad and once at the red knob continued straight up to the headwall. However, I got on what I believed was pitch one of the headwall which was not near the correct route. In the image above if you follow the red at the base of the headwall my party trended left rather than right and climbed the obvious dihedral that begins directly above the farthest left patch of snow in this photo. The route was fairly runout with the alpine rack I carried. After climbing the long dihedral (~55m)
After climbing the long dihedral (~55m) I ran into a fairly heinous roof that forced me right. I scrambled the ledge rightwards to a fixed pin and was then at the anchor for the classic routes first pitch. Is anyone aware if the pitch I describe in the dihedral has been climbed. It definitely has not seen many ascents. It was dirty, the crack was flaring in many spots and I used the face holds for much of the pitch because the crack was closed up with crap! I thought the the pitch went at 5.9+ (X) and my party followers thought it may be 5.10a/b (X). Let me know if anyone knows of previous ascents of this obvious dihedral.
Please email me @ email@example.com if you have any news/beta of this pitch.