If there is something sure in Val de Chamonix, it is the afternoon storm...I spent 3 weeks there this summer and it happened every day, but sometimes it comes earlier expecially at the end of the summer.
Above 4000m you better choose carefully your day of ascent...
Many climbers think Mt Blanc is an easily accessible mountain; right, in perfect wheather conditions. Many think that the danger is below the Gouter Hut, that climbing the glacier and the Arete des Bosses is not a big problem. Right, in perfect weather conditions.
Unfortunately, the Mt Blanc, even through the normal route, is underestimated by most of the trekkers. It's an almost 5,000m mountain, requiring 2,600m elevation gain to summit it.
High mountain means physical exhaustion ( especially as people intend to summit it without acclimatizing )and risks of severe storms.
These 21 climbers were lucky, none of them was injured, or worse.
The average death toll on this mountain is 20/year; climb safe, and if you can't because of the weather, don't worry: the Mont Blanc will be at the same location for a few years more...
We were going to try and summit that day via the 3 mont blanc route. We took the warnings in the ohm office seriously and went cragging in the valley instead. Off to try again in a months time. Hopefully the weather will be more stable!
be vey careful. Condition this year are absolutely exceptional, as there's been a contininously unsettled weather in the last two months, with short sunny spells. There's a lot of snow high up!
It's definitely possible to coimb MB this year via the normal route, but this will require even more attention and effort than usual. Again, remember this: what kills you on MB is almost always the weather. Other emergencies can be (often, not always!) solved by rescue, but bad weather can make rescue impossible (check the additional "2007 Note" on this page text).
Hi signorellil,
Thanks for the advice, I've been monitoring the conditions and weather closely and as if any more warnings were needed 5 climbers died two days ago due to a sudden storm! We're off in a week but MB is only one of many climbs we want to do so plenty of shorter and lower altitude routes to keep us busy.
Chris
when we summited Mont Blanc, but if I ever get to go back there I'll surely remember the meteorology lesson you have given to all of us. Thanks, signorellil. Good article.
...but have just read it since it came up as a featured article again. This is a fascinating piece with some great photos - and especially of interest to me having spent the night of 10th July on top of Mont Blanc - as a thunderstorm came in. It wouldn't have been as big a storm as you describe - this was a late afternoon convection storm, not a 'frontal' system. However, it was bad enough and myself and my companion both took 2 indirect hits from lightning - and had a miserable night in a not well constructed snow cave. I wrote this experience up in a TR "Alps International Expedition 2013".
I have taken the liberty of attaching your article to my TR as 'related' - hope you won't mind.
By the way - enjoyed your page on Italian Normal Route, which we climbed to reach the summit.
Woodie Hopper - Sep 8, 2006 5:04 am - Voted 10/10
Sometimeswords are not enough. I've heard (but not seen) a lot about the infamous storms of Mt Blanc. Thanks for the nice report!
Woodie
Miguel Angel Perez - Sep 8, 2006 7:48 pm - Hasn't voted
Nice Story!Nice story!
MichaelJ - Sep 8, 2006 11:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Very interestingThanks for posting.
climbxclimb - Sep 9, 2006 4:38 pm - Voted 9/10
Good StoryIf there is something sure in Val de Chamonix, it is the afternoon storm...I spent 3 weeks there this summer and it happened every day, but sometimes it comes earlier expecially at the end of the summer.
Above 4000m you better choose carefully your day of ascent...
Charles - Sep 11, 2006 3:29 pm - Voted 10/10
Thanks for thisThanks for you pictures. I certainly wouldn´t want to be up there in such a storm.
Charles
edouet - Sep 19, 2006 2:13 pm - Hasn't voted
About climbing Mt BlancThanks for this report.
Many climbers think Mt Blanc is an easily accessible mountain; right, in perfect wheather conditions. Many think that the danger is below the Gouter Hut, that climbing the glacier and the Arete des Bosses is not a big problem. Right, in perfect weather conditions.
Unfortunately, the Mt Blanc, even through the normal route, is underestimated by most of the trekkers. It's an almost 5,000m mountain, requiring 2,600m elevation gain to summit it.
High mountain means physical exhaustion ( especially as people intend to summit it without acclimatizing )and risks of severe storms.
These 21 climbers were lucky, none of them was injured, or worse.
The average death toll on this mountain is 20/year; climb safe, and if you can't because of the weather, don't worry: the Mont Blanc will be at the same location for a few years more...
arturf - Oct 7, 2006 1:51 pm - Voted 10/10
Thank You!Realy great and so useful information! I'll take everything You've written into accout, when I am going to climb Mont Blanc!
chrisy - Jun 27, 2007 9:50 am - Hasn't voted
Close CallWe were going to try and summit that day via the 3 mont blanc route. We took the warnings in the ohm office seriously and went cragging in the valley instead. Off to try again in a months time. Hopefully the weather will be more stable!
signorellil - Jul 11, 2007 2:37 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Close CallHello Chrisy,
be vey careful. Condition this year are absolutely exceptional, as there's been a contininously unsettled weather in the last two months, with short sunny spells. There's a lot of snow high up!
It's definitely possible to coimb MB this year via the normal route, but this will require even more attention and effort than usual. Again, remember this: what kills you on MB is almost always the weather. Other emergencies can be (often, not always!) solved by rescue, but bad weather can make rescue impossible (check the additional "2007 Note" on this page text).
chrisy - Jul 25, 2007 10:59 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Close CallHi signorellil,
Thanks for the advice, I've been monitoring the conditions and weather closely and as if any more warnings were needed 5 climbers died two days ago due to a sudden storm! We're off in a week but MB is only one of many climbs we want to do so plenty of shorter and lower altitude routes to keep us busy.
Chris
http://www.iol.co.za/index.php?set_id=1&click_id=24&art_id=nw20070724220815696C337965
eza - Dec 30, 2009 9:36 am - Voted 10/10
We were really lucky...when we summited Mont Blanc, but if I ever get to go back there I'll surely remember the meteorology lesson you have given to all of us. Thanks, signorellil. Good article.
markhallam - Oct 29, 2013 5:19 pm - Voted 10/10
I missed seeing this......but have just read it since it came up as a featured article again. This is a fascinating piece with some great photos - and especially of interest to me having spent the night of 10th July on top of Mont Blanc - as a thunderstorm came in. It wouldn't have been as big a storm as you describe - this was a late afternoon convection storm, not a 'frontal' system. However, it was bad enough and myself and my companion both took 2 indirect hits from lightning - and had a miserable night in a not well constructed snow cave. I wrote this experience up in a TR "Alps International Expedition 2013".
I have taken the liberty of attaching your article to my TR as 'related' - hope you won't mind.
By the way - enjoyed your page on Italian Normal Route, which we climbed to reach the summit.
Best wishes
Mark