I'm afraid I had kind of...

I'm afraid I had kind of problems on the Jubiläumsgrat in winter .... ;o))... hundreds of meters falling steeply down to the right and the left side ... ;o)) ... nothing more than slippery rock with snow and ice to hold ... no rope ... nothing ...(14. January 2000. Picture shot by my former boy-friend)

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William Marler

William Marler - Jan 30, 2002 6:08 am - Hasn't voted

Good one

Nice image Rahel. I can feel the tension. Great shot. William

mvs

mvs - Feb 6, 2006 10:50 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Good one

Very nice. I want to do this. Marking it for mahself.

scot'teryx

scot'teryx - Jan 31, 2002 5:42 pm - Hasn't voted

aaarrrgggh!

I feel queasy just looking at that!

Why no rope?

I cant look no more!

Rahel Maria Liu

Rahel Maria Liu - Jan 31, 2002 11:41 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: aaarrrgggh!

Hi Scot'teryx,



I'm sorry that you felt queasy looking at that .... this was not my intention when I submitted the picture ... ;o)).



Why no rope? Well, if you want to climb the more than 6 km (about 3.7 miles?) long Jubiläumsridge in 1 day as we wanted, you do not have any time for belaying, not at all ... but although we did not lose time with belaying, we lost very much time at the very exposed passages (even more exposed than this one) where one person of our group had very big problems .... the result was an unplanned bivouac on the Alpspitze at -25°C/-13F (for 12 hours ....), without any sleeping bag and warm clothing but only about that what I wear on the picture and all clothes a little bit wet .... I almost got killed by the cold ... ;o(.



Regards, Rahel

Bob Bolton

Bob Bolton - Feb 1, 2002 7:03 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: aaarrrgggh!

Rahel, looking back do you think you lost more time without the protection than you would have lost with a rope?



Bob

Bob Bolton

Bob Bolton - Feb 1, 2002 7:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: aaarrrgggh!

Forgot to say that I think it's a terrific shot, but I admit that it makes me feel a tad dizzy as well! :-O

Rahel Maria Liu

Rahel Maria Liu - Feb 4, 2002 4:19 am - Hasn't voted

Re: aaarrrgggh!

Bob,



the most exposed passages of the Jubi-ridge are near the Zugspitze. But these very exposed passages are mostly only snow and ice without rock. So you simply cannot belay anyway. Also in this passage: How do you want to belay? There is no way for any belaying except maybe if you use the ice axe as pitch. I think this ridge was simply expecting too much for this one person of our group. He should not have tried it. Without him, we would not have had any problem to climb it in one day without belaying and without unplanned bivouac ;o).



Cheer, Rahel

JScoles

JScoles - Feb 7, 2002 4:58 am - Hasn't voted

Re: aaarrrgggh!

I remeber when I did this section eons ago we used a rope and were laughed at by the passing german climbers, though this might of been due to the fact we were tied in as groups of three, used green goldline rope, that was tied directly around each climbers waist, large backpacks and hobnail boots.



This must be a great winter climb.



Cheers



John Scoles

Rahel Maria Liu

Rahel Maria Liu - Feb 12, 2002 1:01 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: aaarrrgggh!

John, it's great in winter. We did not use any rope at all, at no time during the whole climb. In winter, only very few people do it. But you must have very good weather conditions, avalanche grade 1, no wind, sun, no new snowfall.

nurettin

nurettin - Jan 23, 2004 1:55 am - Hasn't voted

watch out!

Hi Rahel,



It was a great ascent I guess! keep going!!



Nurettin

Rahel Maria Liu

Rahel Maria Liu - Jan 25, 2004 1:15 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: watch out!

Hi,



yes, I can really recommend this route in winter - it's wonderful. But you have to pay attention to the weather and conditions etc. Some people died because they walked on cornices of this ridge ... they might be very dangerous!



Cheers,

Rahel

bbbeans

bbbeans - Jun 18, 2007 1:23 am - Voted 10/10

You're safe now

Glad you made it home. I'm sure that was a rather exciting time for you.......Wow, when I wrote that I had no idea you are not home anymore. Life is an adventure.

TyeDyeTwins

TyeDyeTwins - Sep 25, 2009 2:26 pm - Hasn't voted

WoW...

What a beautiful picture. Must have been scary but I am sure it'll be a memory of a life time. Remember "If you risk nothing, you gain nothing." HAPPY TRAILS out there.

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