Via dei Camini

Via dei Camini

Page Type Page Type: Album
Additional Information Image Type(s): Rock Climbing

Gaeta, Montagna Spaccata - Via dei Camini (4c)

This album includes photos made during the ascent of the Via dei Camini (Chimney route) along the wall of the so-called Montagna Spaccata ("Cracked Mountain", not official translation), a wonderful rocky promontory in Gaeta. It is located about 160 km far from Rome (South), exactely on the coast of Tirrenian Sea. From Gaeta take the panoramic road up to the sanctuary of Santissima Trinità (builded on XI century by the Benedictines. Take your time, it deserves a visit). Left your car in the parking area, overcome the sanctuary and in few minutes, following a path you arrive at the top of the promontory. From here you have an open view of the coast and of the Serapo beach.
The Montagna Spaccata is divided in seven different sectors:
- La forza sia con voi;
- Lady Jane;
- Beatrice;
- Spiderman;
- Helzapoppin;
- Sali, Tabacchi e Valori Bollati;
- Non bagnarti se puoi.

The wall includes 47 very interesting and attractive routes on rocks (good calcareous rock, slightly salty at the base) ranging from 50 to 190 meters and rated from 4c to 7c. The routes runs on the vertical of the sea and the access is directly from the sea or rappelling down from the top of the promontory and climbing up, as usual for the Via dei Camini and the closest routes.

Via dei Camini (Gigi Mario and G. Shanzer, 1955) is the easiest route and it is rated 4c: 4 confortable pitches (p1=25 m/4c; p2=25 m/4b; p3=35 m/4a-b; p4=10 m/III) suitable for a "quiet" climber like me. On the Via dei Camini you need two ropes 60 meters, nuts and friends, even if new inox fixes (10 mm) were recently placed. The bolts are quite distant and some passages are compulsory. Most of the other harder routes have been also "bolted". You have to climb by stemming and hand-foot matching, avoiding the gravelly and slippery rock of the inner part of the chimney.
The calcareous wall of Montagna Spaccata is exposed to South and you can climb all the year. Nevertheless, it was a great amusement and pleasure climbing the wall in a sunny and warm (!!) Sunday of February.


A new a Italian complete guide, including other climbing areas close to Gaeta.
- Antonioli, F., Innocenti, R., Filocamo, L., "Gaeta, Circeo, Leano, Sperlonga, Moneta", Ed.Versante Sud (2008). ISBN 978-88-87890-57-0


Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-9 of 9

lisae - Feb 5, 2007 11:21 pm - Voted 10/10


It looks like a fun route. Nice pictures!


Lupino - Feb 5, 2007 11:35 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Fun!

You are right. It is a very amusing route. Not stressing but sufficiently exposed. Perfect for a "quiet" climber like me!!
Thank you for the vote.


Dragger - Feb 6, 2007 8:04 pm - Voted 10/10

Love the water!

This place it beautiful! Would sure love to go there. Hopefully someday!


Lupino - Feb 6, 2007 8:32 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Love the water!

Why not...let me know :-))

Gabriele Roth

Gabriele Roth - Aug 29, 2008 10:54 am - Voted 10/10

this should be ...

both a mountain and a route page !
wish I had seen it before
ciao :)


Lupino - Aug 30, 2008 12:11 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: this should be ...

In the past, I was thinking to a page for the Gaeta range, as well for Sperlonga (a very reach and famous climbing area, you know), but I climbed only the easiest routes, and there is a "world" of walls ! To much for me.
I'm happy you like it, anyway.

Gabriele Roth

Gabriele Roth - Aug 30, 2008 12:35 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: this should be ...

ci sono tante pagine di montagne e di vie pubblicate da persone che le hanno viste solo in fotografia (altrui) !!!
secondo me certe "perle" della nostra penisola vanno messe in evidenza, a prescindere dall'averci arrampicato o no (io ho pubblicato La Molpa-Palinuro per quel motivo) - l'importante è evidenziarle e non dare informazioni sbagliate


RenatoG - Aug 30, 2008 1:13 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: this should be ...

Dai Paolo! Pubblica la pagina di Gaeta! Ci metti la via dei Camini e qualche altra che hai fatto, io ci posso mettere la Beatrice...


Lupino - Aug 30, 2008 2:25 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: this should be ...

A gran richiesta (Gab e Renato) provo.
Grazie della fiducia.

Viewing: 1-9 of 9



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