Gaeta, Montagna Spaccata - Via dei Camini (4c)
This album includes photos made during the ascent of the Via dei Camini
(Chimney route) along the wall of the so-called Montagna Spaccata
("Cracked Mountain", not official translation), a wonderful rocky promontory in Gaeta. It is located about 160 km far from Rome (South), exactely on the coast of Tirrenian Sea. From Gaeta take the panoramic road up to the sanctuary of Santissima Trinità (builded on XI century by the Benedictines. Take your time, it deserves a visit). Left your car in the parking area, overcome the sanctuary and in few minutes, following a path you arrive at the top of the promontory. From here you have an open view of the coast and of the Serapo beach.
The Montagna Spaccata is divided in seven different sectors:
- La forza sia con voi;
- Lady Jane;
- Sali, Tabacchi e Valori Bollati;
- Non bagnarti se puoi.
The wall includes 47 very interesting and attractive routes on rocks (good calcareous rock, slightly salty at the base) ranging from 50 to 190 meters and rated from 4c to 7c. The routes runs on the vertical of the sea and the access is directly from the sea or rappelling down from the top of the promontory and climbing up, as usual for the Via dei Camini
and the closest routes.
Via dei Camini
(Gigi Mario and G. Shanzer, 1955) is the easiest route and it is rated 4c
: 4 confortable pitches (p1=25 m/4c; p2=25 m/4b; p3=35 m/4a-b; p4=10 m/III) suitable for a "quiet" climber like me. On the Via dei Camini
you need two ropes 60 meters, nuts and friends, even if new inox fixes (10 mm) were recently placed. The bolts are quite distant and some passages are compulsory. Most of the other harder routes have been also "bolted". You have to climb by stemming and hand-foot matching, avoiding the gravelly and slippery rock of the inner part of the chimney.
The calcareous wall of Montagna Spaccata is exposed to South and you can climb all the year. Nevertheless, it was a great amusement and pleasure climbing the wall in a sunny and warm (!!) Sunday of February.
A new a Italian complete guide, including other climbing areas close to Gaeta.
- Antonioli, F., Innocenti, R., Filocamo, L., "Gaeta, Circeo, Leano, Sperlonga, Moneta"
, Ed.Versante Sud (2008). ISBN 978-88-87890-57-0