Illiniza Norte (Iliniza Norte) Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 138

SenadR - Jan 29, 2011 7:49 pm Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2011

Nice scrambling  Sucess!

Nice climb prior to Cotopaxi.


radson - Jan 29, 2011 2:30 am

Acclimitzation scramble  Sucess!

Went to the Illnizas as prep for Cotopaxi and Chimbo


tmfaust21 - Jan 27, 2011 6:56 pm Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2011

Snow on Norte?

All the climbing book say there isn't snow on Norte. They may be right most of the time but there was quite a bit when I tried it. Only made it to the Paso de la Muerte and had to turn around cause I didn't bring an ice axe, crampons, or rope (and I only had 1.5 hrs to get back to the parking lot to meet my ride, made it down though)


Zyta - Jan 26, 2011 12:42 pm Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2010

normal route  Sucess!

windy and rainy weather, after drinking tea in refuge i got serious stomach illness, but I made it to the top.


Inday - Jan 19, 2011 10:11 am Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2011

Mal Suerte  Sucess!

Parofes and I made a good effort, but he got turned back by the risk of snow, ice, and rock falls as he described. It should be noted that the ridge had fresh snow and ice, making the Paso del Muerte pretty dangerous. I summited after waiting for the other bumbeling crew to get out of my way. I am not sure what the heck they were up to, putting protection in on the descent to the far right of the Paso del Muerte, but I guess better safe than sorry...

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Jan 30, 2011 7:18 pm

Re: Mal Suerte

Congratulations on reaching the summit.

Im sorry the "bumbeling crew" got on your way during your ascent. But I know they are very well trainned in taking care of their clients.

I know it could be irritating when we have to wait in line for our turn or yield to another party while they are trying to lower down one of their clients, who wasn't feeling comfy down-climbing "La Canaleta" or "Paso de La Muerte". But we always need to be patience and just wait in line.

Rushing somebody up through expossed passes could cause fatal accidents sometimes. That's why, we as guides need to place sometimes protection and set up anchors in order to take care of the people we are guiding to.

You are right, it's better to be safe than sorry.

My friends (guides) were placing protection in order to avoid a fatal accident, like the one that occured last Friday (Jan.28.2011) in the very same place described by you above.

Nothing personal guys, I met with you'all a couple times up in Cotopaxi and you seem nice and fun folks to hang out with. Just wanted to let you know why this "bumbeling crews" set up these protections up high.

In the other hand, maybe the guides weren't clear enough, unpolite or sounded rude. They also should find a way of yielding other climbers up or down. Kind of hard in a bottleneck, though.


Inday - Feb 20, 2011 12:54 am

Re: Mal Suerte

Very true man, and a very appropriate reminder. What I meant by bumbeling was the manner by which they were placing the protection: giant swings of the ice axe, throwing snow and ice all over the place that went on to slide down over a face, raining down on a the ascent line. If they had gone further out right to set the pro, more directly above their descent line, this all may have turned out differently.

But I agree Boris. As guides, they made a safety call, and that is paramount over a summit push. Thanks for the re-framing of the issue.


PAROFES - Jan 18, 2011 7:13 pm Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2011

Another try but NO again

Me and Gavin all the way up. Good weather, i was a little bit slow yet cuz of the damn cold i got, throat still infected...
We passed thru Paso de La Muerte, crossed the snowed (that was supposed to be rocky) field, really dangerous...the fresh snow was going down with me...crazy.
When i got to the canaleta, 4 or 5 minutes after Gavin, there was a 5 person team coming down. So i waited. It wasnt really necessary at THAT place, but they were doing i waited, waited...i couldnt go up bcuz with their down climbing going on, some rocks and ice and snow were falling down every second, and after 30 or 35 minutes waiting (incredible!) the weather changed. BADLY. Had to come back right away. Gavin summited Norte and i didnt again...
Too bad for me...i blame that group!

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Jan 30, 2011 7:25 pm

Re: Another try but NO again

Well, now you know, those protections were necessary Paulo. Better safe than sorry.

Just in case somebody falls.


PAROFES - Jan 8, 2011 6:02 pm Date Climbed: Jan 7, 2011


No good...
At the refuge there was some points with 1m of deep snow.
Near the summit there was like 1,2 m of fresh deep snow at some 50 or 55 degrees, too dangerous to insist. Plus, a huge storm came by and everybody went down fast.
Too bad...nobody is reaching its summit so far. The weather here is really crazy...
Gave up 75m below the summit.


centrifuge - Dec 25, 2010 10:25 am Date Climbed: Dec 13, 2010

Perfect Weather!  Sucess!

Climbed it in 2 days, using the hut as an acclimation night. Freddy, the hut guardian was amazingly friendly, and we had the hut to ourselves. The route was a blast with lots of snow on the pass up high adding some extra spice to the last bit. We had views every direction, the best climbing weather of our trip!


rgg - Dec 13, 2010 5:51 pm Date Climbed: Dec 8, 2010

Dusted with snow  Sucess!

Climbed with Rolando as guide.
At the refuge, there was just a little bit of snow, but near the summit it got interesting. The gully just before the summit was filled with powder. However, it was just that, so I wiped it away where I needed to.
Unfortunately, no views from the top.


Herb - Nov 23, 2010 10:57 am Date Climbed: Nov 10, 2010

Normal route (La Virgen - Refugio de los Illinizas - Summit)  Sucess!

Started from our tents slightly above "La Virgen", stopped by at the refuge for a tea and continued to the summit.
Unfortunately we had almost no view due to clouds, fog and a little rain along the route. Anyway it was a nice climb and it was the first 5.000m peak for my girlfriend.
Very fast descent via the loose scree.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Oct 23, 2010 3:46 pm Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2010

Fast climb!  Sucess!

Climbed with 4 guys from Finland. Left the refuge at 6:00 am and got to the summit (5,126 m / 16,818 ft) at 7:45 am.

Back at the refuge at 9:15 am. Excellent weather!

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Aug 9, 2010 11:31 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2010

Windy ridge.  Sucess!

Climbed With Susi (ECU) and Jaime (ECU). Very windy on the southeastern ridge. It got better as we climbed higher to the top.

It cleared off once we got to the summit (5,126 m / 16,818 ft). Very nice views of the lower peaks and surroundings.

Susi needed crampons on the way up. Total climbing time: 2:15 hours.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Jul 16, 2010 6:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2010

Lots of snow!!  Sucess!

Climbed with Andrea (CAN). It snowed on the approaching to the summit. We had great views once we got to the top (5,126 m / 16,818 ft). Stayed 15 minutes up there and then we headed back to the refuge before another storm hit us.

Alexander (EC), a 12 year old boy came along with us on this climb. Total climbing time: 2 and a half hours.


apachedino - Apr 23, 2010 8:31 pm Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2010

Cloudy, but fun  Sucess!

Easier and cloudier than expected. Got one glorious peak at our future objective...Cotopaxi.


ncst - Mar 2, 2010 6:27 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2010

Nice hike - great views  Sucess!

Best views of my three weeks in Ecuador. I counted thirteen volcanoes around me. Wladimir drove me from his hostal Llovizna - I recommend to stay there - to the trailhead La Virgin. Started hiking at 6am. No snow, some wind at the summit with the cross.

Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Feb 22, 2010 1:11 am

great hike  Sucess!

great day, nice weather, pretty fast summit (Boriss predicted around 1 PM, and I was already in Quito taking a shower at that time). Hiked up/scrambled with Segundo (friend of Boriss = High Andean).


scottmitch - Jan 30, 2010 1:16 pm Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2010

Normal Route  Sucess!

Climbed with Dustin and Ammon.

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