Illiniza Norte (Iliniza Norte) Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 141

Haliku - Jul 10, 2007 9:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007

Normal Route  Sucess!

Some snow made for an interesting climb. Nothing too major as we didnĀ“t need an axe. Great views of Sur and Cotopaxi. Climbed with Bill562 and Axe. Take a tent instead of staying in the hut. Unless you like the smell of kerosene....


Bill562 - Jul 10, 2007 8:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007

Norte  Sucess!

Climbed with Haliku and Tim (Axe). Hut is a bit dirty and smells of kerosene, but the climb was enjoyable and weather great. Only one other party at the hut the night we were there, but crowds were arriving as we were hiking back ...


oo09nj76t5 - May 10, 2007 2:25 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2006

Acclimatization Run  Sucess!

Interesting climb in the rain and fog. Probably should have turned around. Didn't. Almost paid for it. Learned.

Jessica L - Apr 14, 2007 11:58 pm Date Climbed: Nov 25, 2006

This isn't waterproof!  Sucess!

The route was fun, but the weather was not. It was much colder than I expected with constant rain/sleet and about 10' of visibility. The conditions made it difficult to descend and my guide and I roped up. I also confirmed that my waterproof jacket is, at best, "drizzle-proof"

marauders - Jan 22, 2007 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2007

Standard Route: Jan 10, 2007  Sucess!

Snowed two inches overnight which made the more exposed sections of the rock scramble a bit interesting, but overall is was easy terrain and a fun rock scramble with beautiful views. No rope necessary on the 5.3 section. I found the climbing to be a bit easier than what I think of as 5.3. We downclimbed the same section with no rope. Sunny in the morning, clouds rolled in around 10am. The hike to the hut, and the night at the hut, was the crux for me. The approach hike goes on forever and the hut is small, dirty, musty and dark. Get there early to the hut or you'll get stuck sleeping on this nasty loft with no leg room. I learned the hard way! What a night!

We didn't take a guide on this mountain, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend that decision with the snow we encountered. The traverse onto the north face and the subsequent 5.3 climb up to the summit is hard to see without prior knowledge of the route. We followed a distance behind another 3 man group with prior knowledge of the route which took the dangerous guess work out of the equation. Without that third-party guidance, we would have waisted a lot of time hunting for the right path with steep slopes, snow and exposure. We were fortunate.


Scott - Jan 22, 2007 5:02 am Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2007


We didn't make the summit so I shouldn't sign, but it was such a trial to get here that I am going to sign anyway.

I contracted a serious bout of food poisoning on the way down and at the Houston Airport (USA) on January 4. I was sick on the plane and the next day we were supposed to climb Pichincha. I was so weak that I could only make 135 meters/440 feet on the peak.

The next day we were supposed to go to Iliniza Hut. I was so sick that I couldn't make that either and only made it 2/3 of the way before collapsing and wrenching over. I had to return down the mountain and got sicker as I descended. Luckily we saw two condors; the good news of the day.

On January 7, I was finally feeling better, but not as well as normal. We climbed to the hut that day. Unfortunately on the 8th we were actually supposed to climb Sur, but I wasn't up to it and my wife wasn't feeling great either. We missed our acclimatization days at the beginning of the trip.

On January 8 I was better and we set off for Norte, but my wife wasn't feeling up to doing the Paso de la Muerte so we turned around there at 5060 meters/16,601 feet; 56 meters/184 feet from the summit.

What an ordeal. I sure was disappointed for never getting a crack at Sur. We were out of time and it was time to head to Cotopaxi. Luckily I was better after Iliniza.

Don't eat tacos in the Houston Airport!


tjbst47 - Dec 31, 2006 7:27 pm Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2006

iliniza norte  Sucess!

I believe that the second peak is from the hut is higher that the peak with the cross. The guides say that the peak with the cross is higher probably because getting to the next peak requires some exposed fifth class at high altitude. However, the altimeter says otherwise.


Fabrice.Rimlinger - Nov 11, 2006 4:52 pm Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2005

Normal route

Almost to the top ! I was alone and it snowed the night before... got to be carefull.

Thomas Gurviez

Thomas Gurviez - Oct 10, 2006 4:54 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2006

normal route  Sucess!

we planned to climb iliniza sur, but a snowfall higger than 4000 m made it impossible, and we just climbed the easier iliniza norte, nice views on cotopaxi and beautiful snow accumulations on the rocks below the summit


pksander - Sep 26, 2006 10:07 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2006

Iliniza Norte  Sucess!

A great climb with Eileen and Marco Cruz and his guides at Andinas Expeditiones. A very nice mixed snow and rock climb in good weather. A warm up for Cotopaxi a few days later.


nesnegroj - May 16, 2006 6:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2003

Route: normal  Sucess!

Nice hut and nice climb all together.


summiter - Mar 30, 2006 1:40 am Date Climbed: Apr 9, 2005

Route: Straight up sandslide  Sucess!

This was a good mountain. We went up the sanslide on the front of the mountain instead of circling around to the back. After the sanslide there was a short gully we went up and joined where we would have come up on the trail around the back. This was more dificult but saved a good amount of time. Horrid weather at the top, but nice once we came down again. Had some steep slopes on the way up after joining up with the trail. Had a great time.


YetiBauer - Feb 28, 2006 2:16 am

Normal Route  Sucess!

What a windy place to put a rock pile!


forjan - Jan 13, 2006 3:25 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 2, 2006  Sucess!

January 1, 2006: Drove to La Virgen trailhead (3950 meters / 12,959 ft): the trailhead for the Ilinizas. The approach hike to Iliniza's hut Refugio Nuevos Horizontes took 2 hrs 20 min. Slept at Iliniza's hut (15,256 ft).

January 2, 2006: Climbed Iliniza Norte with DeeDee via the Normal Route. Started at 6:09am. Summited by 7:58am and back at the hut by 9:00am (~ 3 hrs roundtrip). We picked up our camping gear and walked to La Virgen trailhead. Then, drove to Quito to overnight.


colint - Jan 12, 2006 11:58 am

Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: jan 10 2005  Sucess!

The atrocious refugio was more than compensated for by an exceptional hike/scramble to the summit with remarkable views of the volcanoes of Ecuador above the clouds at dawn.


climberben - Dec 25, 2005 9:02 pm

Route Climbed: standard from La Virgen Date Climbed: 15 October 2000  Sucess!

Spent the night at the refugio and made a quick morning climb to the summit in cloudy weather. Broke above the clouds in the last 10 meters to the summit. Awesome views. Hiked almost back to Machachi before a bus came by and picked us up that afternoon.


Ario - Nov 8, 2005 11:52 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: June 8th, 2005  Sucess!

Committed trek (UIAA II, 70 degrees, + 475m), with Suzy (UK) et Scott (USA), good weather. No more permanent snow left unlike what is mentioned on some maps...

edl - Sep 29, 2005 6:23 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Nov. 98  Sucess!

We did this as a warm up for Cotopoxi. Nice day climb.

C.Wagner - Aug 22, 2005 2:31 pm

Route Climbed: Normal route from La Virgen Date Climbed: July 13, 2005  Sucess!

Spent the night at the end of the 4 WD track (la Virgen ?) - camp site

Start at 0500

Hut at 0800 (short break)

Summit at 1015

Cloudy, no view

Some snow at the summit

Rock climbing at the end. Take a rope for descent

A good acclimatisation for Cotopaxi


mpa - Aug 11, 2005 5:31 am

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 8, 2005  Sucess!

Nice climb in the morning after a sleepless night.

We could see Cotopaxi and Chimborazo although Iliniza-Sur was in clouds.

Viewing: 1-20 of 141
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