Great climb other than the fact that because of COVID you now need a beforehand reservation to drive a car to la joya so we had to walk.
Very dry, no snow
You start at 13000 ft and go to 17158ft.
Most people start between midnight to 2am since it can take 12-15 hours.
The first section is pretty steep grassy field to a basic mountain refuge. Then the steepest part of the climb that is through mountain rocks and scree with some class 2&3 sections. Then up and down a few times that includes a glacier crossing (30 minutes to 1 hour to cross).
I wore high top water proof trail runners for the whole trip and was fine. The summit is very unremarkable but a proud moment for most. Experienced heavy fog and a bit of hail in the way back.
Make sure you bring 3 to 4 liters of water, layers, glacier glasses, suncreen. Try not to sweat so you don't get a cold easily. People say this is harder than Orizaba.
I reached the dying remains of the Ayoloco glacier. It was a week after the start of winter. Rainfall had not fallen severely for a few months, and the weather forecast was very uncertain, as usual. The day, at dawn, looked pretty clear, and it was like that until reaching the Refugio de los 100, because a storm (not of the severity with which I ran into on my first ascent) made snow fall in small quantities. The glacier is just the compact mass of perennial ice that has great hardness. My failure to summit was because of the ice; it was too hard to move safely, even with crampons. Being my solo effort, and staying only two hours of daylight then, I preferred to return.
We got our climbing permit for Izta in Amecameca, then got a cab to the Pass of Cortez (11,100') and on to La Joya (13,200')
We hiked up to the hut near 15,000' and stayed for the night. Had mice issues that made for a tough sleep. Alpine start for summit day on Izta (17,160'), then descended to Amecameca.
Great conditioning climb before we'd go on to climb Orizaba a few days later.
With three other outing clubbers from Troy, NY
First time being this high in several years. We were feeling fairly strong and pushed to get all three summit peaks in under 4.5hrs. Slightly tore something in my knee when I overextended on the way down so car to car time wasn't the best.
Pretty dry and easy conditions as well as comfortable temps.
My team of 4 hiked up Ruta Ayoloco.
We began our ascent on the Cruz de Rosas route around 2pm and arrived to Refugio Otis McAllister that evening. The next morning we began our hike up the Arista past the Panza. We stayed on the far left side of the Arista rather than the center (where I have hiked up before) in order to avoid the last few meters of potentially dangerous terrain. The left side of the Arista is much more noble and feels more like hiking a sandy steep trail rather than a rocky slide. The mountain is unfortunately losing all of its glaciers so I guess this is the new normal. Glaciar de Ayoloco is basically dead and the other two prominent glaciers are deeply scarred and full of crevasses.
Climbed with a friend of mine who had never climbed anything that high or with ice/snow. Rented crampones from 2thesummit in Puebla.
Note to the original post: We came from Cholula by bus to Xalitzintla, there are very regular minibuses. From there, at least what they told us, there are no taxis driving to La Joya, but a bus that goes to Amecameca every 1-2 hours, pretty much once they get a couple of customers. This last trip costs 100 pesos per person, no matter if you go just to Paso de Cortez or all the way up to Amecameca. You can also do it the other way around if coming from DF.
We walked from Paso de Cortez- its' a very nice easy walking trail with informative tables. We climped past La Joya (where the was nobody) until it started raining and pitched our tent between La Joya and "the saddle" that is the first point from where you can see all the way to Puebla. Don't camp there at the saddle as it's very windy - there are some spots before. I also wouldn't recommend to stay at Refugio de los Cien hut as it's in disgusting condition.
We didn't start until 4:30 am as it was raining. As the rain decreased but it was very foggy, we made it to Refugio de los Cien hut in 2 and half hours, where the conditions were very snowy - the snow level started already half an hour before the refugio. There is some easy scrambling from the refugio until the "knee" of the sleeping woman, but the conditions made it a bit hard especially for my totally unexperienced friend - there was very low visibility, it was snowing sideways with strong wind and during the entire climb there was a lot of snow and ice. We didn't make it up to the old broken refuge at the "knee" just over 5000 m until 10 am, and the clouds disappeared from up there for just 10 minutes. It was all worth it - we could see Popo, the glacier and the peaks that would still come. As it was so late and bad storm was forecasted to start at 11 am, we started descending. No one else climbed that day. It was tough going down as the snow and ice started to melt and it got very slippery. Without crampones this would have been completely impossible - already before Refugio de los Cien hut we were slipping in the snow/mud/ice and had to put crampones. Would def recommend a helmet ad many loose rocks, in ice conditions also an ice axe comes handy.
All in all quite difficult conditions that could have turned dangerous, but I would definitely climb to Izta again as it is very beautiful mountain with interesting climbs - I would claim it more interesting than Pico de Orizaba. Didn't make it to the top but all worth it.
Great day, left La Joya early at 2:00. Crampons were good to have for the belly, but otherwise there was almost no snow or ice on the peak. Weather was perfect the whole day, and the sunrise toward Orizaba and La Malinche was impressive, as was Popo spitting out plumes of smoke in the background. Ended up climbing all three peaks along the rim; not sure which was highest but at least we know for sure we summited.
Made the summit less than 24 hours after leaving Puebla; first-ever 5,000-meter peak
A couple of days on the Peak!
I climbed this wonderful mountain after first climbing La Malinche. In low visibility conditions got twisted around and wound up descending the glacier route. Thank goodness for crampons.
Kessler and I had planned to climb Iztaccíhuatl over two days, spending one night at the Albergue/Altzomoni Lodge. We made the fateful decision to leave the tent back in Amecameca, which was a big mistake!
Since we were only planning on an acclimatization hike today, we arrived at the La Joya Trailhead late morning. It was there that we found out that in order to stay in the lodge, we had to get the key back in Amecameca! Since we were supposed to meet friends in two days, we didn't have time to go back and get it! (Later we found out that we may have been able to retrieve a key at Paso de Cortes?).
We contemplated sleeping under the stars or up at one of the huts, but we had brought our suitcase with us. We didn't want to leave it out in the open. We found a place to hide much of what we had and started up the mountain.
The weather was perfect, but with a bit of wind and we made our way quickly up the mountain. We made it up to "The Knees" a.k.a. "Las Rodillas" at about 5000 meters before it was time to turn back. The Knees is only about 200 meters lower than the main summit, but it would have been a long walk to get there. We did well considering the very late start. There was a little snow around, but not that much.
We descended back down the mountain to La Joya, where we caught a ride back down to Amecameca in the back of a very crowded pickup. It wasn't comfortable, but we were very grateful for the ride.
The three of us hiked from the La Joyita and were lucky to have the hut to ourselves (standard route). The lights from Mexico City through the windows of the hut were a fantastic treat as we anxiously set for the night.
Alpine start at 3am and we slowly, but surely made it to the top of Izta after the sunrise and were the only one to summit that day. Izta saw an unusual amount of snow this year, so we found ourselves blazing the trail through the somewhat deep snow passed the false summits. And at 17,000+, boy, does it make a difference. Even flat areas took some effort to leave behind.
Was cold during the night and we were melting under the strong sun on the glacier on the way back all the way to the La Joyita.
Was this worth it? Every step, every heavy breath, every cold finger. Must climb for all!
Summit Equipment: crampons, ice axe, helmet, head lamp, 2L of water, one trekking pole.
Climbed to the first of the three peaks on the Crater rim. A long route with huge elevation gain (over 6000 feet), but absolutely stupendous views of glaciers, jagged spires, and a steam-belching Popocatepetl volcano a few miles away.
Summited he first sub summit Las Rodillas to acclimatize for Orizaba