Iztaccihuatl Climber's Log

Viewing: 121-140 of 153

jweidman - Jan 10, 2005 3:54 pm

Route Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: 18 Nov 2002  Sucess!

Climbed solo after Kenny turned back. Bad weather and near white-out near top. Ended up being a very long day.


sdespins - Dec 21, 2004 5:10 pm

Route Climbed: Normal - Arista del Sol Date Climbed: December 11, 2004  Sucess!

Beautiful weather, long trek. Amazing views of Popo.

Stayed at Altzomoni hut (very nice - must get keys at Paseo de Cortes).

Ayoloco hut still around. Republica de Chile hut does not exist. If climbing normal route, only option is Albuge de los Cien which is a tin covered structure which is overcrowded and dirty. Many camp but the entire area is a mess. don't expect to sleep inside the hut. better options are camping before the hut or up at the feet.

You must bring all your water with you making the first part of the climb a bit tough. I was planning on a 2 day tour (1st day from Altzomoni to Albuge de los Cien and then summit next day) and carried up 9 litres of water plus other food and gear. Ended up summitting in one day but was glad for the water anyway. I found some trustworthy locals to watch my big pack while I hit the summit. Otherwise, leaving behind gear can mean trouble especially on a weekend.

Compliments to a local climber, the original "pecho" summit is down off the first summit (with larger cross and other markings) across another glacier valley and the closest you can get to the "head". There is a smaller, cross here which may be snow covered. It is only about 10 - 15 minutes more but well worth it. From here you can see the ice wall route from the "head". Both "pecho" summits are after the Pico de la luna and Pico del Sol.

Locals report that climbing the "head" is suspect due to robberies, etc. starting the climb from San Rafael as that area of the national forest is not guarded.

See trip report for more details.


Ramos - Nov 2, 2004 10:50 am

Route Climbed: Arista del Sol Date Climbed: May 5 2004  Sucess!

This climb was of two days, we camped in the knees, whe got to the summit at 6:00 am


pacojgarza - Nov 1, 2004 2:11 am

Route Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: October-23-2004  Sucess!

I finally reached the elusive summit of Izta on my third attempt, this time with gorgeous weather. Snow was present from just below the knees all the way to the summit and it was in good condition. We had great views of Popo, Orizaba, Malinche and Nevado de Toluca.

It turned out to be a long slog due to our large group (28 people) from Monterrey, México, but it was well worth it.

This hike is far more enjoyable than Orizaba and I wouldn`t hesitate to do it again.

ripper333 - Oct 20, 2004 10:34 pm

Route Climbed: arista del sol Date Climbed: dec 2001

one push from la joya. late start and one long

day. coolest thing ever neighboring popo was

puffing away while on the summit of izta.


tlogan - Oct 17, 2004 7:27 pm

Route Climbed: Arista del Sol Date Climbed: Oct. 17 2004  Sucess!

Beautiful day... slept a grand total of 0 hours the night before... with 75 camped in and around the hut we were woefully unprepared and paid for it dearly.

The next morning while fighting exhaustion, diarrhea and stomach cramps we left at 4:30 and I somehow made it up to the rodillas in an hour and a half and from there on was relatively smooth sailing... a beautiful day, beautiful mountain and a marvelous sunrise... even Popo gave a little hiccup.

The snow was very firm, styrofoamy and was easy to work up and down in... though you could tell I was one of the few who felt that way... one of the advantages to living in a wintery haven for most of my life I suppose...

I truly love this mountain it offers so much to the eye and for an alpine experience... Orizaba is more one dimensional... simply up and up and up.. Izta has it all!


mxclimber - Sep 16, 2004 11:38 am

Route Climbed: La arista del sol Date Climbed: April 4 2004  Sucess!

nice weather reached the summit at about 9


amcfarre - Jul 15, 2004 5:11 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Feb 12, 2004  Sucess!

I enjoyed this climb far more than Orizaba. Much more interesting and with great views of Popo.

Lots of pictures at:



esugi - Feb 28, 2004 6:08 pm

Route Climbed: Ayoloco Glacier Date Climbed: February 19, 2004  Sucess!

Left the Ayoloco Hut at 3:30 am and summitted at 7:15 am. Beautiful Day. The glacier was in terrible condition so we mainly stayed to the left through many gulleys and rock. We barely touched foot on the glacier. No affect of altitude at all. Drank lots of water. Perfect acclimitization climb!

We did not see anyone else the entire day (not even from the normal route). It only took couple of hours to descend. We packed and headed back to La Joya and on to Orizaba!


Haliku - Feb 3, 2004 10:38 pm

Route Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: 27Jan 04  Sucess!

We had beautiful weather. Left La Joya at 0200 under clear sky. Before the dawn it was cold and found us on the snowfields above the hut.

We only crossed two glaicier areas, the belly and the crater to the summit. Conditions were completely dry. A storm a few days later blanketed all the high peaks in the region with a white coat.

It took us 13+ hours roundtrip due to an teammate getting injured at 17,300 on the way down.

mtnfoto - Jan 21, 2004 1:52 pm

Date Climbed: Jan 1976 and Feb 1993  Sucess!

Lots more snow the first time I did it. Guided three clients in '93.


marke - Dec 11, 2003 5:59 pm

Route Climbed: Ayoloco Glacier Date Climbed: November 24, 2003

What a beautiful mountain!!! We arrived on November 22, and camped just below La Joya. The following day we carried to 14,400 feet on the high route to the Ayoloco Hut. Our summit day was hampered by weather, but we did manage to make it to the top of the Ayolodo Glacier at 16,600 feet!!! The white lady is more beautiful in person than I had ever imagined.

--Mark, Scott, Nate

Brice Neugebauer

Brice Neugebauer - Aug 30, 2003 9:30 am

Route Climbed: Arista del Sol Date Climbed: 12 Feb 2003  Sucess!



dharmadog - Aug 3, 2003 10:40 pm

Route Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: November 2000  Sucess!

Oh well, it can be done in a day but its a long haul especially those ups and downs on the return. Good weather and such a beautiful place up there on the glacier.


climber21 - Apr 11, 2003 9:14 am

Route Climbed: Arista del Sol Date Climbed: April 03, 2003

We got to La Joya about six in the afternoon. We hiked from there to the hut, most of the time in the dark. It had snowed for the first time in a long time a couple days earlier, and on our hike up in the dark in snowed about two inches, and most of that fell in half an hour. We stayed at the hut for the night. Thursday morning we headed up the rest of the Knees and made it to the Belly Glacier (Ayoloco). Despite the recent snow, the signs of no fresh snow for quite a while were evident on the glacier. It was rittled everywhere with crevasses. We roped up and headed out on the glacier, though. About a third of the way across we decided to turn back as it was becoming too treacherous. Still, we had a great time, and everything was very beautiful. We are wanting more snow, though, to help the glaciers and effectively cover up some of those crevasses. =-)


big_g - Feb 21, 2003 9:07 pm Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2003

Route Climbed: Arista del Sol (Normal Route)  Sucess!

What a great time and a personal altitude record until I climbed Orizaba a few days later.


climber21 - Feb 19, 2003 4:23 pm

Route Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: February 19, 2003

Just got back from Ixta today. We only made it to the summit on the Knees, but still an enjoyable time. A friend on the trip (who is one of the best rock climber's i've seen) got some altitude sickness, but i think he still enjoyed the trip.

This was the driest i've ever seen it on ixta. We need snow! I was interested to get to the glaciers to see how much they've changed, if at all, but we didn't get that far this trip.


forjan - Feb 19, 2003 1:31 pm

Route Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: February 8, 2003  Sucess!

Left Tlachichuca on the 9:45am bus to Puebla's CAPU (31 pesos). Then took the 2nd class "Intermedio" (Estrella Roja bus) to Mexico City and got off at Puente de Chalco. Walked over the bridge to the south side and then took the regular bus to Amecameca (7 pesos). Arrived in Amecameca's main plaza, the "zocalo," around 2:30pm. Here I hired a taxi to take me up to the Altzomoni climber's lodge/hostel. But first we secured permits (they cost 10 pesos as of Feb 2003; they just started charging this year). I also had to pay 60 pesos to stay at the Altzomoni lodge (also a new change). We passed the 1st military post before Paso de Cortes and then at Paso de Cortes we passed the 2nd post. My taxi driver and I agree that he would pick me up the next day around 4:00pm. I arrived at Altzomoni around 4:30pm on Friday, Feb 7th. Altzomoni has bunk beds, power (electrical lighting) and two restrooms with no running water. Bring your own drinking water from Amecameca. I went to bed around 8pm. Got up at 2am and started walking from Altzomoni at 3:07am towards La Joya and onto the peak by headlamp. Routefinding in the dark is somewhat of a challenge. Nevertheless, I managed to make it to the Grupo de Los Cien hut twenty minutes after sunrise. Took a small break here and then headed up via some class 3 rocks towards the Knees. Even though I carried ice axe & crampons, I never used them. Summited Ixta at 10:37am. Took some pictures and began to head down at 10:50am. I finally arrived back at Altzomoni at 2:27pm. My taxi driver got there at 3:40pm and by 5:00pm I was back in Amecameca trying to get a hotel. I wanted to stay at Hotel San Carlos but was all booked. I ended up at Hotel San Marques, which is like 10 minutes north of the main plaza/zocalo. I found Hotel San Marques to be adequate (150 pesos a single bed, 300 pesos for 2 beds). Took a shower and then walked to Fredys Pizzeria and pigged out on a medium pizza. After that, I slept like a baby that night.


IdahoClimber - Feb 5, 2003 8:46 am

Route Climbed: Arista del Sol Date Climbed: December 31st, 2002  Sucess!

Ass kicker! The false summits were brutal (both physically and mentally) What a great way to start my time in Mexico. Drank over 3 liters of water and could have used way more. I was running low on food and had only one Gu (because of the cows). Started from La Joya at 2:30am with 2 others and hit the summit at about 9. Take the time to acclimate and enjoy the view. The lights from mexico city and then later the fog set a different tone that most climbs. See my trip report from Mexico and feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions. Mexico is awesome.

Nic Stover


dsnell - Dec 17, 2002 9:16 pm

Route Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: November 26, 2002  Sucess!

We did it all the way from the Altzomoni lodge (at the base of the TV towers) in one day, though we were spared the hike back up to the hill where the TV towers are located (our ride came down for us). This added only about 45 minutes to the climb, but I think a start from La Joya, or higher up, would have been more enjoyable. But at least we didn't have to lug a bunch of gear and water to the high camp. I really enjoyed the climb, but I think it would have been more enjoyable with more snow cover, as the scree slogging became tedious at times. Also, unlike most mountains, once you are at the summit, it is not all down hill. One must climb back up a few times, including the long climb back up to the knees. Pace yourself accordingly. Watch out for the f@#$%ing bulls at La Joya. One big black one came after me (I was wearing red) after I descended, making this the most dangerous part of the climb!

Viewing: 121-140 of 153
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