Kang Yatse Climber's Log

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Brant - Dec 28, 2019 2:51 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2018

Kang Yatse II   Sucess!

Successfully Climbed KY II (6200 m) on June 2nd, first summit of the year. Started with the entire Markha Valley trek so was well acclimatized. Permit is now $50 per person. Route was completely unmarked but not hard to find in good weather. Patches of snow were missing, exposing black ice and at the top there was a dangerous cornice and steep black ice. Didn't see another climber the whole trip.


mdou - Sep 8, 2015 5:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2015

Kang Yatse II - 6200 m  Sucess!

To clear things up, like the previous people in this log, I climbed the second summit of Kang Yatse, also called "shoulder", the one that's about 6200 m. From what I understood, climbing Kang Yatse I (6400 m) uses a completely different route than the one used to reach Kang Yatse II (6200 m). The permit to climb Kang Yatse II was 25 USD. I was told by the permit office that the permit to climb Kang Yatse I was 600 USD, though it might be possible to get a 50% discount at times. The main difference is that Kang Yatse I is technical, takes 700 m of ropes and several days to climb, whereas Kang Yatse II has a nice route going up a steep snowy slope and can be done in one night.

Here's my account: I went by car to Shang Sumdo just past Hemis, and from there I walked to Nimaling (about 7h). Nimaling is a stop on the popular Marka Valley trek so it is easy to find food and accommodation there. It's possible to combine the Marka Valley trek with Kang Yatse which would have you walk 3 days to reach Nimaling. There is a base camp up on the hill behind Nimaling, but I started the climb from Nimaling since I didn't have my own tent. We started at 11PM, reached base camp at 12AM, and reached the top at 6AM. We had to take it slow because we didn't want to reach in complete darkness. The climb was nice and pleasant, a long walk in the snow, cold-ish, but the slope was steep and slippery so crampons and rope were welcomed. The view at the top was really special. I didn't expect to feel so high! Everything went well and we were back in Nimaling by 9 AM. I actually walked back to Shang Sumdo and got to Leh that same day, but that was a long way to go without sleeping.


opensea64 - Aug 20, 2015 9:42 am Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2013

60m below KY 2

Climbed to 6140m after heavy snowfall the day before. Going was very heavy in loose and avalanche prone conditions. Set off a potential avalanche (it went whoomph but didnt slide). Apparently its common on this peak, so be careful if you climb. Turned around at 60m below summit of KY2 due to the slow progress and dangers listed above.

viktor vaughn

viktor vaughn - Jan 29, 2015 1:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2011

6200 m summit

Climbed it to the 6200 m summit. We were the first team of the season. Not very technical but it took a 3 day hike to reach. I wasn't well acclimatised but we made it. Stunning region. After coming down (and having rested) we hiked through the entire Markha valley.


pratyush - Jun 9, 2010 12:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2009

summitted  Sucess!

...the 6200 m summit with Bettina Kraus and Nima, on 14-20 Aug' 2009, via the standard North Face (stretches of highly crevassed 50 degree snow)


e_wire - Aug 6, 2007 8:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007

Fore summit  Sucess!

We climbed the fore summit without any problems... Took about 7h from basecamp to basecamp.

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