Lady Wilson's Cleavage, IV, 5.9

1st -2nd Pitches- 200’- 5.9/ We combined these first two pitches. From the deck, you start out climbing an off width crack/chimney system. The 5.9 moves basically employ chimney technique without facial features to assist in uneven chimney space that constricts from time to time. Carrying a pack through any of this terrain is practically impossible. Either hoist the bag on a pulley or have the 2nd hang it below his feet as he/she climbs. The climbing is pretty sustained and dirty. If you are not fighting bushes and their dirt pods, you are pulling off suspect holds or losing your footing on the sandy rock. The most secure you feel is when the chimney is wide enough to wedge in from time to time. The gear call for this route is the largest I have ever seen for a free route at Red Rocks (double of everything from #2-#7’s!). Of course we did not even take any 7’s ourselves and only 1 #6 and were fine with what we had. We did use our double 5’s quite a bit though. The first pitch belay is at a solid ledge approximately 120’ up. The 2nd belay (and first if you are combining the pitches as we did) in a small sandy hole of sorts below a steep and deep section of the chimney with a crack for medium gear. There is some bail tat on a small tree in this cove for retreat with double ropes.
Lady Wilson's Cleavage, IV, 5.9, Mount Wilson, Red Rocks, March, 2008


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